The Ford Barn - View Single Post

Joe K · 08-20-2014, 09:02 AM

It's been my opinion for some time that the 28-29 Model As are a bit "under-radiator'ed" - or at least more sensitive to adversities in this area.

One of the reasons (probably) that Ford provided a larger and improved thermally radiator for the 1930-31 cars.

Above they've talked about "flushing" - both radiator and engine block. Also flow aspect of the pump (which your thermostat tends to correct - but only as a band-aid to flow problems between upper and lower tanks.) And also timing as it affects heat release and conversion of thermal energy into mechanical energy.

The radiator may need rodding - sometimes mechanical removal is the only way.

The radiator may also be subject to the dreaded "solder corrosion issue" which as the name implies is a corrosion based deterioration of the thermal connection between the radiator fins and the tubes themselves. You may be able to detect this by checking in various spots to see if the fins can be "moved" on the tubes.

The problem with these last two failure modes is that they are gradual - and to casual appearance the radiator may be fine - but heat transfer impeded.

The fin/solder corrosion issue is particularly difficult since it's probably not time effective to completely re-make an original radiator - and a replacement may be your only option.

Hopefully you'll find the solution in the earlier mentioned remedies.

Joe K

08-20-2014, 09:02 AM	#9
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 5,018	Re: Overheating It's been my opinion for some time that the 28-29 Model As are a bit "under-radiator'ed" - or at least more sensitive to adversities in this area. One of the reasons (probably) that Ford provided a larger and improved thermally radiator for the 1930-31 cars. Above they've talked about "flushing" - both radiator and engine block. Also flow aspect of the pump (which your thermostat tends to correct - but only as a band-aid to flow problems between upper and lower tanks.) And also timing as it affects heat release and conversion of thermal energy into mechanical energy. The radiator may need rodding - sometimes mechanical removal is the only way. The radiator may also be subject to the dreaded "solder corrosion issue" which as the name implies is a corrosion based deterioration of the thermal connection between the radiator fins and the tubes themselves. You may be able to detect this by checking in various spots to see if the fins can be "moved" on the tubes. The problem with these last two failure modes is that they are gradual - and to casual appearance the radiator may be fine - but heat transfer impeded. The fin/solder corrosion issue is particularly difficult since it's probably not time effective to completely re-make an original radiator - and a replacement may be your only option. Hopefully you'll find the solution in the earlier mentioned remedies. Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse.