[MikeK]

Originally Posted by Jazzjr

. . . So I have installed them the Correct Way in the Past.

Based on OPINION. If you assume everything a particular engine builder says is correct you are being lead down a slippery path. Perhaps he surfaces blocks to such a low RMA finish he is unable to take advantage of the increased mechanical lock and seal the crimped side presents to the narrow siamese areas. The head side is flat and wide, and the head moves against the gasket, not the gasket against the block if both surfaces have the correct finish and the gasket is installed as intended, Maker's ID side up. Any crimped gasket that 'prints' the block tells of a surface finish mismatch.

Deciding surface finish and type of gasket is always a compromise. Modern (really modern) spring stainless core no-retorque gaskets require an extremely fine and very flat surface. The Model A 'modern' (30 y.o. tech) silicone gaskets seal against liquids best with a finer rma finish, but cannot hold their surfaces well in siamese areas if subject to high pressures. The 'sandwich' gaskets, either copper or steel, are much stronger against blowout in siamese areas IF the proper mechanical lock is established between the block and gasket, leaving only the head surface to float. The compromise here is possible slow liquid leakage. Composition faced gaskets present the most compliant surface for liquid sealing and also present increased siamese area pressure resistance IF they are made with a steel core and fire ring. The disadvantage is VERY quick loss of initial torque, perhaps 50% after the first heat cycle. You need to be vigilant 'till it holds 85% initial, something most model A guys won't do.

I'm sure your 'engine builder' doesn't offer different surface finishes based on what type of gasket you choose to use.