Quote:
Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION
Hopefully when you get the charging system working it will be fixed....
Another bit of info, the car shut off and threw a belt off the front of the engine. Now after hearing more it could very be that the alternator caused this entire problem, maybe a short to ground causing the ignition to just quit etc.???
As others stated , you really got to know your test light and the voltages it will light under. Also the use of a test lamp is positional , meaning the position of the distributor makes all the differences in the world with test light testing.
Ex: If the points are closed ( grounded) then current will flow making the voltage drop high in the ignition circuit causing a very dim test light based on voltage drop across the components.
Makes it even tougher to diagnose.....
staying tuned hoping this one is fixed ......with a new alternator etc ???? |
Thanks, we'll get this sorted out and see where I'm at. I don't think the belt failure was related. The alternator/water pump belt was still in place, just the fan belt. I didn't replace it when I put the other one on so it was old, it probably didn't like the long ride. I've used this test light on coils before and I knew it should be a little dimmer on the ballast and coil. It was clear I was getting nothing at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassman/NZ
I'm confused as to how the fan belt got thrown off..... it must have been very loose...
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The belt actually failed, it was coming apart but still barely flopping around the fan and crank pulley. Again, I think old age and higher rpms were the cause there. I didn't notice any temperature change but being on the highway kept the air flowing, I've never had problems with this one running hot.