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Jim Huseby · 09-10-2013, 09:19 PM

Your Ditzler code, 1245, should be preceded by a letter designation, such as DAR for Ditzler/PPG acrylic enamel back then, which didn't require a hardener, but performed (higher gloss, longer lasting) better with. If it is DAR, the catalyst made for it back then may not be available now and I can't remember its code name. Maybe I've smelled too many paint fumes over the last 40 some years. As stated, you shouldn't count on it being useful. The heavier components will probably be solidified in the bottom of the can and when you think your paint stirring stick is sliding on the bottom of the can, it will be sliding on the hardened stuff. But, if you're curious, see if you can get it all stirred and agitated without any lumps. Then determine if it's synthetic or alkyd enamel (which are reduced with synthetic enamel reducer and don't use a catalyst), or acrylic enamel. There's a very slim chance it's acrylic lacquer with the prefix "DDL", which only requires lacquer thinner, blended for your temperature and humidity. Also, as stated, a good paint rep may suggest a catalyst that would work. If DAR, any common acrylic enamel reducer will work such as for PPG/ Omni or PPG/ShopLine. You will need to strain your paint several times. You can experiment with small amounts on properly prepared scraps to see how it sprays out and dries. Mixing ratios on catalyzed products need to be exactly as specified by the manufacturer. You will not be able to guess how long it will last, but I can understand your curiosity. However, when it fails, you'll have to bead blast your wheels and start all over. Also, as previously stated, a good paint rep will be necessary. An experienced painter friend could keep you out of trouble. Are there any Model A-ers or old car nuts near you that would help you? A Must-Read is the "Antique Ford Repaint Manual" by PPG and sold by Model A suppliers.

09-10-2013, 09:19 PM	#3
Jim Huseby Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 361	Re: Ditzler REDUCER Question Your Ditzler code, 1245, should be preceded by a letter designation, such as DAR for Ditzler/PPG acrylic enamel back then, which didn't require a hardener, but performed (higher gloss, longer lasting) better with. If it is DAR, the catalyst made for it back then may not be available now and I can't remember its code name. Maybe I've smelled too many paint fumes over the last 40 some years. As stated, you shouldn't count on it being useful. The heavier components will probably be solidified in the bottom of the can and when you think your paint stirring stick is sliding on the bottom of the can, it will be sliding on the hardened stuff. But, if you're curious, see if you can get it all stirred and agitated without any lumps. Then determine if it's synthetic or alkyd enamel (which are reduced with synthetic enamel reducer and don't use a catalyst), or acrylic enamel. There's a very slim chance it's acrylic lacquer with the prefix "DDL", which only requires lacquer thinner, blended for your temperature and humidity. Also, as stated, a good paint rep may suggest a catalyst that would work. If DAR, any common acrylic enamel reducer will work such as for PPG/ Omni or PPG/ShopLine. You will need to strain your paint several times. You can experiment with small amounts on properly prepared scraps to see how it sprays out and dries. Mixing ratios on catalyzed products need to be exactly as specified by the manufacturer. You will not be able to guess how long it will last, but I can understand your curiosity. However, when it fails, you'll have to bead blast your wheels and start all over. Also, as previously stated, a good paint rep will be necessary. An experienced painter friend could keep you out of trouble. Are there any Model A-ers or old car nuts near you that would help you? A Must-Read is the "Antique Ford Repaint Manual" by PPG and sold by Model A suppliers.