[Richard (EV8G)]

Originally Posted by 1937pickup

Strange question/statement-does Richard Lacy post here any more? Richard was on the old barn and very knowledgable about these old Ford brakes. He would be the go to guy for this question.

We have been extemely busy and I have not been posting on the Barn very much...

It is difficult to tell from the photo which style hubs/drums you are trying to mount. The style that the hub flange fits INSIDE the drum are preferable, whereas the style where the hub flange is on the OUTSIDE of the drum (wheel mounts directly to it) are a problem. In either case, the new studs do not get "swaged" as were the originals BECAUSE if that is done against the new drum, stress is
created and the drum can eventually crack around the holes. Also, the drum centers are way thicker than the original stamped type, so whatever "original" studs are purchased will be too short to swage anyway.

We use MT hubs and drums, made in USA. The new hubs come with studs installed and the drum slips over and can be removed to access the brakes. These are the style where the hub flange is INSIDE the drum... IF the new drums are to be mounted on ORIGINAL hubs, special studs with serrations just under the head must be used; a flat must be ground on the head to correspond with the flat on the hub, and then the new stud PRESSED INTO the HUB flange but NOT the drum. Our experience has been that the studs that are supplied as "supposed to fit" do not - diameter too small to fit the hub hole. We have found studs that can be used successfully BUT the holes in the original hubs must be re-sized and also the holes in the drums.

The drum in your photo appear to be the "foreign-made" type which we do not sell because... IF they are the type that mount on the INSIDE of the hub flange, there is no good way to install them because the stud passes through the drum BEFORE it gets to the hub, which is almost Mission Impossible. I have seen where people have tack-welded the stud heads to the drum to keep them in place and from rotating, but have also seen where the weld has failed and the stud rotates when attempting to remove the lug nut...

There is more that I could write, but the "jist" of the matter is that one must begin with COMPATIBLE parts and the studs supplied are often NOT.

Richard Lacy
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