Quote:
Originally Posted by sturgis 39
I am still confused. How would you set the timing?
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Being as you ask, here is how I set mine. I use a mechanical method that doesn't require watching the points. I don't see any reason to make the process of setting the timing more complicated..
I will try and first give a little insight. There will be backlash in the distributor shaft Unless everything is new from the camshaft to the upper distributor shaft. What I mean when I say backlash, is rotational slack. When the engine is running the distributor turns in the counter clockwise direction. The distributor shaft and cam rides on the clockwise end of the backlash and you don't want clockwise backlash when the cam screw is tightened.
When the timing mark is found with the timing pin, I set the trailing edge of the rotor tip (rear edge) so it is pointing directly at the number one plug wire contact in the distributor cap body, with no clockwise backlash when the cam screw is tightened. Backlash in the counter clockwise direction will not effect the timing. Remember the trailing edge of the rotor tip with NO clockwise backlash or your timing will be retarded to whatever degree or amount of backlash remains. I would also check and set the points gap. Too little points gap retardes the timing. I set mine at .022 but anything from .018 to .022 will work.
This method gives the most advanced timing that will run without starter kickback. It will idle down and chick ah lunk with the spark lever retarded and have crisp throttle response with the spark advanced. Of coarse the engine needs to warm up for optimum idle either way. I can also hand crank my cars with the spark fully retarded without fear of kickback but you are on your own there. I hope this answers your question .