[Richard (EV8G)]

Originally Posted by Chris

One more thing...will a 32 4 cylinder rear end (early type with the round pinion flange) have axles that will work for me? My Dad has one that I can use but I do not know if the axles will interchange.

The axles in the early rear are the same as Model A and ARE NOT usable in the late32-34 rear, or any other later rear. In fact, that applies to all of the other parts in an early 32 "B" rear, except for the seals, filler and drain plugs and some of the hardware...

When overhauling a rear, it is preferable to use all nice parts since it is a major PITA to have to re-do the job. Trouble is the #18-4235 axles that are NOS or excellent used are scarce. The other guys are definately correct that the tapered/outboard end is critical. We visually inspect them and if they look ok, take them and have them magna-fluxed to be absolutely sure there are no cracks.

As John Deats explained to me MANY years ago, when the axle nuts are not sufficiently torqued, the hub can "work" on the tapered end and key, causing the keyway to spread and ultimately develop a crack at the inner end of the axle keyway. This will eventually cause the axle to "fail" which can be a catastrophe. The old-days racers used "safety hubs" to prevent loss of the wheel/hub/drum when the outer end of the axle snaps off.

I would try to find some better axles, but you may not be able to...
Also check the differential case, as they are frequently broken where the "snout" for the carrier bearing joins the main part of the housing. The spider gears may also be pitted or badly worn where they rotate on the "cross".

Welcome to the fun job of rear-end rebuilding!