[rotorwrench]

A lot of doodle bugs were made from the AA trucks since the later 30/31 types had the 4-speed trans. The frame and rear axle are heavier duty too. If it has been setting a long time, it's not a bad idea to remove the distributor and pour the first quart of your oil change down in there to prime the valve chamber. Valves like to stick after long slumbers so a basic compression check is a good idea. Parts are readily available from suppliers and Renner's Corner for some of the more rare afternarket carbs.

Heat related failures can be either vapor lock or ignition system related. Bad ignition coils or failing condensers can break down as they heat up so keep that in mind. The A&L no-blow condensers are about the best ones available for the model A distributor unless it has a modern points set conversion.

If you see where there is a hole in the radiator then there's no doubt but model A radiators can just puke out the overflow tube as well. That can depend on how well the radiator cap seals up. Finding someone to repair a radiator in this day and age can be a real challenge. Most modern radiator shops just sell new radiators.

That's quite a set of rear wheels on that thing. They look like an implement wheel. The early model AA wheels were wire but they changed over to the solids in 1930.