Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama
Having the original coil rebuilt is the best option.
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yes, i wouldn't be surprised if that were true.
funny thing is that the car was not running when i purchased it. but once i got it running a problem arose. that being that on a cold start the engine ran smoothly, but as it warmed up it started misfiring. and progressively worsened until the car would practically stall at idle and eventually WOULD stall after only about five minutes and then not restart until i waited a few hours for it to cool off. there was no overheating problems with the cooling system, BTW.
i suspected the coil was failing as temps in the engine compartment rose. as i've had similar experiences with rising temps in engine compartments increasing electrical resistance and causing similar problems. so i bought a new coil from one of the usual vintage Ford parts retailers. in fact, i accidentally bought TWO! of them.
and when i installed one the other day, i purposely, as a test, bypassed the ignition system altogether (including any ballast resistor that may or may not have been in the wire to the coil) and ran a wire directly from my 6v battery to the coil. and it made no difference whatsoever. but after stalling out the car will NOT start at all, even when cold. and i suspect i've either burnt out the condenser, points or the coil or any combination of the three. as i think that the battery was probably suppling closer to 7v than 6v.
and so, when i install my "coil conversion kit" complete with new coil and condenser and no need of a ballast resistor we'll see if it fixes the problem or if i've burnt up my points...i guess. which is not as tragic as it might seem because i've got an E-Fire fully electronic distributor in the wings that had, up until recently, failed to work, but a recent revelation has occurred that gives me hope that it will work if and when i install it again, which i plan on doing if this latest test fails for any reason.
cheers!