[The Art Doctor]

Plugging away on smalls while waiting on more parts. I put in an old stock Airtex 6V low pressure blow through electric fuel pump. It has a built in anti-siphon one-way valve. It is mounted using an existing running board bolt with compression fittings on the existing copper coated steel fuel line that I cleaned out earlier when I changed out the fuel tank. I know not everyone will agree but I have an electric pump in each of my old cars. Most are set up like this as an accessory to a mechanical pump to fill evaporated carb bowls and to thwart off vapor lock on those 95* deep south days that I get stuck in traffic. Modern fuel has such low vapor pressure, as its engineered for closed loop modern cars' systems, that a hot engine will evaporate the fuel out of a carburetor in the time it takes to stop and get a cheeseburger and milkshake. I will run it through the ignition via the 6v left side lug of the ballast then the small switch on the lower left dash rail that is normally used to turn on and off the dash lights will be the actual energizing source, so no new holes or switches and no power drains or accidentally leaving it on with the ignition off.


I did receive my rear NOS brake rods from Southside Obsolete. Amazing this stuff is still around sitting and waiting to be finally installed on car 90 years later. My rods were bent and nearly half worn through from the support bushings that attach to the rear radius rods not to mention the loose fitting pin holes. By comparing the new to old I figured out that someone had cut the rear rods down and then welded on the extensions to the clevises to make up for them being too short. More hackery righted. I have more NOS smalls coming from Southside as well. I got the surface rust off the new rods and painted them and new clevises from Mikes A-ford-able, which is around an hour north of me. Wish I knew I needed the brake pills when I went and picked up a small order a few weeks ago. I really like the one-part epoxy spray paints from VHT. One part epoxy is basically what they used to call appliance paint. It is either UV cure or moisture cure depending on formula. I use their Roll bar and Chassis spray paint a lot and can highly recommend it. Primer is optional as all epoxies are DTM "direct to metal" compatible and once cured is hard as a rock. It will be dry to touch over night but full cure takes a good 7-10 days in my experience especially moisture cure in the winter with dry air.