[drolston]

The ballast resistor is about 1.5 Ohms. The primary windings are a bit less than 1 Ohm. Asuuming 2.25 Ohms total, when the points are closed that circuit will draw (I = V/R) about 2.6 amps. That is enough to wiggle the ammeter. No wiggle means no current flow. Several things can cause no current flow, and burned or stuck open points is the last thing in the chain. Start by checking that you have battery voltage at the coil, where the red wire attaches. If yes, fix the points. If you do not have a volt meter, get one; a cheap analog one (with a needle) - not digital (with and LED). If no voltage at the coil, do the following:

Assuming you are still 6 volt , positive ground:
1) red/positive lead from voltmeter to a good ground (bare metal on dash, or column)
2) With the ignition switch off, toucn black lead to either terminal on the back of the ignition switch. One of them should show 6 volts.
3) If neither, check to be sure the headlights work, confirming battery voltage is getting to the ammeter.
4) If the lights work, find the break or disconnect inthe hot wire (Yellow/black, I think) coming from the ammeter to the ignition switch.

5) Turn the ignition switch on. You should find 6 volts on both terminals on the back of the ignition switch.
6) If one is still zero volts, repair the ignition switch. They can wear out and fail.
7) If both sides have 6 volts, find the ballast resistor; a wire wound thing mounted on the firewall behind the dash. You should have 6 volts on one side, and at least 4 volts on the other side. If not, replace the ballast resistor if cleaning and tightening the connections does not fix the problem.
8) If you have voltage on both sides of the ballast resistor, find the break or disconnect in the wire going from there to the ignition coil. Should be a red wire.