Quote:
Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN
The math that I am seeing here doesn't tell the ENTIRE story. If you subtract 0.866" from 1.27", that leaves an ADDITIONAL distance of 0.404" that the PISTON must travel. That is not the main concern. You must also take pedal travel into account. This means that the pedal pad (the part that your foot pushes on) must travel a GREATER distance which is dependent on the pedal ratio. Pedal ratio involves the difference in the distance of the pushrod pivot pin vs. the distance that the pedal pad is from the pedal's pivot centerline. If the pedal footpad is five (or more) times farther from the pedal pivot point, the pedal RATIO is 5:1. That means that the pedal PAD must be able to travel FIVE TIMES the ADDITIONAL DISTANCE that the piston must travel. In this case, we're talking about an additional 2.02" PEDAL TRAVEL.
BEWARE.....as this does NOT INCLUDE any additional pedal travel necessary as I referenced ABOVE because of a leak in one side of the system. All that I am suggesting here is that it should be wise to induce a "test leak" in each side of your newly-plumbed brake system to insure that you still have full-stroke-pedal capabilities should a leak develop in either side of your system. Also beware that "full stroke" means WITHOUT THE M/C BOTTOMING-OUT. The M/C should NOT bottom-out.
Coop
.
|
That is true..... hence my mention of "that extra 3/8" AND the pedal ratio.
Almost any re-designer of a brake system should be looking at total stroke
available for the pedal assembly and comparing it to total stroke available
of the master. Few people do this, that is why few people should be modding
brake systems.