[Joe K]

Cuprinol will work, but its main constituent is copper napthalate of some form - Green in its usual constituent. Thinks the smell and appearance of your typical summer camp cabin.

Cabots used to have "bleaching oil" which was a mix of refined creosote (creosote we're familiar with is black and used on railroad ties - but triple refined creosote makes a 'clear' substance used in the bleaching oil as vehicle for grey stain.) Homes on the New England south coast typically lasted 70-100 years in full sunlight on white cedar shingles using this product. (Think Newport, RI mansions done in "shingles.")

The EPA has made both of these products "highly modified" - after all their main constituent is effectively a "biocide" - and humanity can't possibly be allowed to dominate the physical world (sorry - not to go political.) Both of these are "not what they used to be."

Today's nearest equivalent to either of these would be something "Tung Oil" based. My choice might be "Waterlox" which is a floor finish visually similar to polyurethane - but a much stronger coating - or diluted used as a fiber strengthener. Clear gloss or available in satin or even "tones." My first coat on pine floors is usually done 50-50 mix with mineral oil.

You don't say if you're going to follow up with "color coat" - which is how Henry produced the vehicles, or if like most your bed wood might be left "natural." If natural, I would do Waterlox and put on about 4 coats after the dilute.

My experience with polyurethane has generally been VERY poor. The coating "ages" in the sun, gets yellow and brittle, and then chips off leaving bare wood underneath. We're currently in a multi-year project to sand all the floors in my wide pine board colonial house and re-finish in Waterlox. Last check about $84 per gallon (!) It takes 2 gallons to do a typical room.


Joe K