10-19-2022, 10:49 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,917
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Re: 47 u-joint help
Sadly, there are no shortcuts. Here's a good thread about pulling the 1948 Ford rear, which I think, is the same as a 1947. Some say you don't need to remove the rear spring when pulling back the rear. That is true IF you can raise the rear frame of the car high enough for the rear spring to clear the rear cross member into which it fits. Removing the rear wheels so you can lower the rear so it's resting on the drums really helps. You can still roll the rear on the drums. You have to disconnect the brake line up near the front of the wishbone where it crosses over from the master cylinder.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-ford.1064240/
Follow oldskool's advice re: U-joint.
BE SURE TO USE LOTS OF JACK STANDS TO SUPPORT THE FRAME OF YOUR CAR WHEN LIFTING IT.
You can rebuild your OEM U -JOINT but, it would be nice to find an OEM original.
https://thirdgenauto.com/product/192...nt-repair-kit/
or you can by one already rebuilt (easier than doing it yourself).
https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/car...niversal-joint
One more thought, while you have easy acessability you might want to replace the old style cork seal in you U-Joint bell with the neoprene seal and also seal #4245 shown in last photo.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25125522858...Bk9SR6apk5D-YA
PS: Don't forget to install the two paper gaskets BEFORE you reinstall your U-Joint.
The 3rd photo is that brake line you have to disconnect in order to roll the rear back. If that line were longer, you wouldn't have to bleed the brakes.
Last edited by 19Fordy; 10-19-2022 at 11:33 AM.
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