Yes there are differences other than the styling of the 3 different years. Which year do you prefer?
Are you considering a fairly original car or something to modify with newer parts?
Check out all the pages at this website link, lots of photos and good information.
http://www.portholeauthority.com/thunderbirdETC/indextb.html
Have you driven or sat in one before? They are a smaller car than you might think and some folks find the driving position uncomfortable. Other folks aren't able to get behind the wheel at all if a top is on the car. The large steering wheel can create legroom problems even tho it telescopes. A few folks prefer to modify the seating and steering wheel position with aftermarket parts to be able to drive them more comfortably.
Automatic or manual transmission? The gearing may feel a bit low by current standards and an overdrive gear can be preferred for hiway driving. Only originally available with the 3spd manual transmission.
If there are current '55/'57 T-Bird owners near you, or a club chapter, it's a very good idea to meet them and discuss their suggestions and even a take test drive or two. Chances are also very good that at least one of the club members will have a good car for sale.
Click this link...
https://www.ctci.org/select-a-region-map/
Ford made changes to them each year. It might be argued that '55 is more true to the original design concept if you prefer that.
'56 has the iconic continental spare tire and was the first year for (optional) factory porthole hardtops, which improve visibility for the driver.
The 57's usually have more power and options along with 3 years worth of ignition, carburation, electrical and mechanical upgrades. Two links...
http://www.portholeauthority.com/thu...ch/trivia.html
http://www.portholeauthority.com/thu...ch/engine.html
'55 was the last year for 6 volt positive ground electrical systems. Conversions to 12 volt negative ground aren't overly necessary.
https://www.ctci.org/battery-cables/
But if they're done, it can be with varying and sometimes highly questionable degrees of workmanship.
https://www.ctci.org/battery-for-6v-to-12v-conversion/
Being the first year for 12 volt, the 56's have one-year-only electrical gauges.
'57 dash gauges were improved to a more common electrical design.
The Y-block engines from '54 to '64 are very similar, under-hood parts can be mixed between vehicles and years fairly easily. Some of these changes can be a good idea or a bad idea, and others may approach the level of fraud if undisclosed.
Example: a swap to a misrepresented / less desirable engine, which happens somewhat often.
Two links...
http://ford-y-block.com/Block%20identification.htm
http://ford-y-block.com/identify312.htm
There is a Data Plate on the right/passenger side of the firewall in the engine compartment.
In addition to the Serial Number of the car it lists the original: engine option, interior and exterior colors, build date of the car and the dealer sales area the car was built for. Later '57 data plates list the transmission & rear axle codes.
Two links, page 1 & 2
https://www.ctci.org/decoder/
https://www.ctci.org/wp-content/uplo...02/print03.jpg
Technical Specs and original paint colors for each year...
http://automotivemileposts.com/tbird/prod1955tbird.html
http://automotivemileposts.com/tbird...1955tbird.html
http://automotivemileposts.com/tbird/prod1956tbird.html
http://automotivemileposts.com/tbird...1956tbird.html
http://automotivemileposts.com/tbird/prod1957tbird.html
http://automotivemileposts.com/tbird...1957tbird.html
When new off the line they had no rust proofing to speak of. Consequently most of them have had rust damage varying from slight to totaled. Unfortunately body filler & recent paint work or undercoating is often used to hide the damage. Significant rust damage is probably the most costly and potentially fatal problems one of these cars can have.
A careful pre-purchase inspection by a very knowledgeable person is a must.
Coolant flow thru the block may be ok, or adequate at best. Debris buildup in the water jackets resulting in higher than desired temperatures is a problem.
Improved water pumps and other cooling system parts are available and can be very helpful.
Two examples...
https://www.classictbird.com/Water-P...ctinfo/8501HO/
https://thunderbird.us/
Some old original Temp gauges seem to read higher than they should, confirm with a hand-held infrared temp gun.
Most important is having a debris-free block & radiator.
Air conditioning, if desired, was not an original factory option. If it's added, conversion to a higher capacity alternator, electrical wiring and additional cooling fans is often necessary.
Insulation on original electrical wiring has often reached the end of its effective life in the past 65 years and may need significant repairs or complete replacement. Poor quality 'repairs' by previous owners etc. are often a problem as well.
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