Re: clutch fork
I have been using Bratton's bell housing\pedal bushings for years without a problem. They fit tight in the housing and the pedals. Some bushings from other suppliers do not fit tight and when you go to ream them the bushings twist right out. I use a bushing driver tool and drive the bushings into the bell housing with a hammer. For the pedals I use a shop press. I have a plate that has a machined recess and a hole in it that I set the pedal on. I use the same bushing driver tool and press the bushings in with the press.
For reaming I have a reamer I bought from Bratton's years ago that is long enough to ream both bell housing bushings in line. I use the same reamer on the pedal bushings with the pedals clamped in a vice.
When installing bushings in pedals that have grease fittings I grind a "V" into one side of each pair of bushings with a grinding wheel. When installing I line the two "V"s up so they install right over the grease fitting hole, otherwise you will have difficulty getting grease between the bushing and the shaft. You can also grind a little material off each side of the two bushings to provide a path for grease to enter.
The later pedals that came with factory grease fittings use a wavy washer between the two pedals. I think the purpose was to aid in getting grease into the area. I use a wavy washer on all the restorations I do. You can add extra wavy washers if there is too much thrust clearance.
When adding grease fittings to each side of the bell housing to grease the clutch shaft you might find it difficult to get any grease in there because the shaft is blocking the grease fitting. When the shaft and the bushing get worn enough it will be easier to get the grease in with the increased clearance.
Tom Endy
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