Quote:
Originally Posted by russcc
More info on bearing clearance. The machine shop that checked and assembled the crank and main bearings measured the OD of the crank with a mike, and the ID of the installed bearing & cap with bore gauge. They said the bore gauge was more accurate than plastigauge. Bore gauges are too costly to invest in where plastigauge is good enough.
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true, but my thinking is price now of a pizza price of beer price of going to eat out; all this and the money and food is gone. So for a little more than
a $100 you get a bore gauge which is not only used for bearings but a lot of other machine shop duty's. If I added up all the plastigauge over the years that would buy a bore gauge and we all know a strip of plasti doesn't go far especially doing shimmed Babbitt jobs. My father pounded me that the engine blood pressure tells the story. My personal ride has floater rod bearings and the only way is the bore gauge and rods were not standard, so
all rods were resized and honed to standard and turned and polished crank to .010 ac-cross the board. So with 1000 miles my blood pressure is 60 and
40- 45 idle hot and as soon as you move it goes to 60lbs all day and thats at
0015 clearance on all. I think this is personal preference, although back in
my oval track racing days they sounded like knockin on the curves loose as a goose never lost a engine may have had 20 lbs oil psi at 4 grand Oh the smell of Nitro methane and hamburgs / onions /beer at the track. Now thinking back a Chevy overhead couldn't cut it and also nobody ran a 8BAs either all
59ABs now ya all know why 2drs and business coupes went--the tracks...sam just ramblin again