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piewagon · 06-08-2017, 05:55 PM

Actually not so great of an idea. Most of the problems with getting proper clearance around timer rod is that people don't know that to properly set the timing and Not have it rub against anything is to start with a brand new rod properly made to factory drawing. Yes they do exist. To adjust the timing you should bend the rod ONLY in the ARC that the rod makes as it exits the timer and goes above the timer. To advance the timing you simply squeeze the arc together to reduce the end to end length but do it only in that upper arc. Likewise if you need to retard the timing you simply stretch the arc wider at the same location. What usually has happened is that someone installed an outside oiler on the engine and decided to bend the timer rod out of the way rather than forming the oil line being added to a shape that does not interfere with the timer rod. Top dead center is easy to find if you remember to setup the timing when the radiator is off the car. Just look into the front of the motor and note the position of the pin that holds the front fan pulley onto the crankshaft. EVERY TIME that pin is exactly horizontal, one of the pistons is exactly at TDC. That pin hole is reference angle 0.000 degrees when the cranks shaft is ground initially so that all of the throws are in proper location. You don't need anything but an operating set of coils and a battery to power the coil box. Just set the lever to full retard and turn on the ignition. Pull the hand crank slowly till you hear a coil buzz. STOP when you hear it and pull the hand crank back and look at the pin. IF the pin is sitting at the 10 o'clock - 4 o'clock position you are too retarded. Pull ahead slowly an stop when you hear buzzing again and you will see that every time you stop the hand crank when you hear buzzing, the pin is in exactly the same position. If the pin is in the 8 o'clock - 2 o'clock position you are too advanced. What you want is the pin to be just past the 9 o'clock - 3 o'clock position. What this means is that just look at the right hand end of the pin and make sure it has PASSED the 3 o'clock position but only but a small amount. That is then what I call the 3:15 O'clock position. Verify that you get that exact position on each of the 4 cylinder and your T will be very easy starting. All of this timing adjustment is done with the lever in full retard position. Just pull the hand crank up ever so slowly and STOP when you hear the buzz and look at the pin. If it is in the 3:15 position - you are spot on perfect. I have set all of my cars this way for years and even verified it with a degree wheel and it is always exactly correct because all Ford T cranks made by Ford have the pin hole in exactly the same angular position.

06-08-2017, 05:55 PM	#9
piewagon Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 13	Re: Timing a Model T Actually not so great of an idea. Most of the problems with getting proper clearance around timer rod is that people don't know that to properly set the timing and Not have it rub against anything is to start with a brand new rod properly made to factory drawing. Yes they do exist. To adjust the timing you should bend the rod ONLY in the ARC that the rod makes as it exits the timer and goes above the timer. To advance the timing you simply squeeze the arc together to reduce the end to end length but do it only in that upper arc. Likewise if you need to retard the timing you simply stretch the arc wider at the same location. What usually has happened is that someone installed an outside oiler on the engine and decided to bend the timer rod out of the way rather than forming the oil line being added to a shape that does not interfere with the timer rod. Top dead center is easy to find if you remember to setup the timing when the radiator is off the car. Just look into the front of the motor and note the position of the pin that holds the front fan pulley onto the crankshaft. EVERY TIME that pin is exactly horizontal, one of the pistons is exactly at TDC. That pin hole is reference angle 0.000 degrees when the cranks shaft is ground initially so that all of the throws are in proper location. You don't need anything but an operating set of coils and a battery to power the coil box. Just set the lever to full retard and turn on the ignition. Pull the hand crank slowly till you hear a coil buzz. STOP when you hear it and pull the hand crank back and look at the pin. IF the pin is sitting at the 10 o'clock - 4 o'clock position you are too retarded. Pull ahead slowly an stop when you hear buzzing again and you will see that every time you stop the hand crank when you hear buzzing, the pin is in exactly the same position. If the pin is in the 8 o'clock - 2 o'clock position you are too advanced. What you want is the pin to be just past the 9 o'clock - 3 o'clock position. What this means is that just look at the right hand end of the pin and make sure it has PASSED the 3 o'clock position but only but a small amount. That is then what I call the 3:15 O'clock position. Verify that you get that exact position on each of the 4 cylinder and your T will be very easy starting. All of this timing adjustment is done with the lever in full retard position. Just pull the hand crank up ever so slowly and STOP when you hear the buzz and look at the pin. If it is in the 3:15 position - you are spot on perfect. I have set all of my cars this way for years and even verified it with a degree wheel and it is always exactly correct because all Ford T cranks made by Ford have the pin hole in exactly the same angular position.