Re: Removing broken head bolt
OK, so I tried welding various washers and nuts onto the remnants of the bolt with my mig welder. It is a 22O volt job and does a good job, but the broken bolt was a bit below the surface. The whole shebang was glowing red and I thought "this time it's going to hold" , but when it cooled and I sprayed it with kroil or PB, it just sheared off. I was starting to get depressed so tonight after work I started thinking about what to do. I have a a set of napa ez-outs, the square types, but I have never had much luck with drilling down the center of a bolt. I needed a device to center the drilling. I found a standard air hose fitting ,industrial type, 3/8 male that fit really well into the cylinder head's bolt holes. I drilled it out with the bit I had and bolted the head to the block with a handful of bolts. This guide worked well and the stub of a head bolt was now hollow. More heat from a mapp gas torch as I was out of acetylene, more PB. I had a crescent wrench on the square of the ez out, but no dice. I found a 3/8 12 point socket fit perfectly on the square ez out. After a couple more heat cycles, the air impact rattled out the stub on the end of the ez out. There was a lot of stress involved, and most of the time I have used these infernal gadgets, the ez out breaks off. I attribute this evening's success the fact that I am no longer young and impatient. It took me four late afternoons between work and dinner to follow this through, but with no machine shops on the island, sometimes patience pays dividends..
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson)
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