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Old 10-17-2016, 12:19 PM   #5
Marshall V. Daut
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Davenport, Iowa
Posts: 2,900
Default Re: exhaust manifold

Half of the Model A's I see driving around and work on have an exhaust leak of some kind, some worse than others. That "trick, tick, tick" really irritates me, even though most owners think this is normal. That's because their friends' Model A's also have exhaust leaks. Unless the tail pipe is improperly mated to the exhaust manifold - due to a cheapie muffler flange or poor repo clamp - the cause is almost always the exhaust manifold's drooping at #4. The weight of the tailpipe and muffler over the past 85 years has pulled down the back of the manifold during countless heating and cooling down cycles. Without those gland rings to keep #4 in place, it's just a matter of time before your new exhaust manifold will begin drooping, too. Ford eliminated the rings for a time, but then realized more problems were being caused without them than with them. So, they were brought back to the factory lines. Start out right with your new manifolds: use gland rings!
And even though these rings will eliminate the tendency for the gasket to blow out, invest in the more expensive copper manifold gaskets, as most posters have likewise recommended. They compress (seal) better than the one-piece steel gasket and will work better with the glands and new manifolds. Do not tighten up the two bolts connecting the intake to the exhaust manifold until the four 11/16" manifold nuts have been tightened and re-tightened after a couple heating cycles. The threaded holes in the exhaust manifold for these bolts are "blind", so no exhaust will escape if the bolts are not completely snugged up. Once you cannot tighten the manifold nuts after a few cycles, then gently tighten the two connecting bolts the rest of the way.
One more thing: if you have a vacuum windshield wiper, you need to drill and tap the vacuum line fitting hole in the intake manifold. You can do this before mounting the new manifolds or afterwards. It's a pipe thread, as I recall. You could do this with the manifolds mounted and carburetor removed. That way, any metal shavings caused by the drilling and tapping will fall down through the intake manifold's throat and out of harm's way. Your call.
Marshall
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