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Bruce Lancaster · 06-11-2015, 09:44 AM

1. yes
2. Pop off the side caps and wires can stay connected...no need to disturb them unless you suspect trouble. Remove three bolts and vac line and it should come off. Look it over and note that the drive tab is offset, so it can go back on properly timed. Also examine front of cam...your engine uses what is called the LONG cam, something like 3/8" longer nose at distributor cam than '42-48 SHORT cam. You may very well have a short one, since those are far easier to find, with an adapter that lengthens cam...so wiggle the front of cam with pliers and see if a little adaptor comes off. Reason you need to know this is that adaptor could fall off, anf then you'd have a REALLY mysterious failure to fire!
Set points to large end of gap range. I've posted a method of timing the thing using only a ruler, stolen from an old Ford patent. Timing at stock 4 degrees will be right about center of scale.

06-11-2015, 09:44 AM	#2
Bruce Lancaster Member Emeritus Join Date: May 2010 Location: Madison, NJ Posts: 5,230	Re: Pulling Diver's Helmet 1. yes 2. Pop off the side caps and wires can stay connected...no need to disturb them unless you suspect trouble. Remove three bolts and vac line and it should come off. Look it over and note that the drive tab is offset, so it can go back on properly timed. Also examine front of cam...your engine uses what is called the LONG cam, something like 3/8" longer nose at distributor cam than '42-48 SHORT cam. You may very well have a short one, since those are far easier to find, with an adapter that lengthens cam...so wiggle the front of cam with pliers and see if a little adaptor comes off. Reason you need to know this is that adaptor could fall off, anf then you'd have a REALLY mysterious failure to fire! Set points to large end of gap range. I've posted a method of timing the thing using only a ruler, stolen from an old Ford patent. Timing at stock 4 degrees will be right about center of scale.