Quote:
Originally Posted by edmondclinton
Yup, and less water volume flowing as a result of a thicker deck than the original manufacturer intended and along with more obstructions, known as ribs.
The truth is, no one knows how the head will work exactly until it is proven in the field.
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Yeah, I feel somehow , that you are probably correct in some respect as to the volume idea. And, I agree that some practical use/testing will prove one way or other how good something is. However, I have used new heads that cracked fairly soon in use , and have used old worn out rusted out heads that also had cracking problems. I feel that with use of more modern foundry methods and more modern pattern creations, as well as more modern machining skills/techniques....all of these available to Tod, that I'm confident he will produce a better head than many available to us in the past. Better metal, better engineering and better machinist , IMO , will equal better head. That's why I'm already in on this project. Same logic and position relative to Tod's Model A/B blocks. Deposits on record, eh
And, don't ignore that if a guy puts the best head ever made , on a rusted block with a rust filled radiator and worn out water pump, that head would be destined for problems, including over heating /possible failure.
I'd be interested to hear/learn how a 'thicker deck' is or can be a 'problem'...overheating or otherwise
The heaviest head that I've ever run, so far, was Lion Head 111, which weighed in at about 55 + pounds. Best running head I ever had at 7:1 compression ratio. The maker advised me that the deck was thick enough to easily increase cr safely. Head ran cool and NEVER overheated on a NOS B block with rebuilt radiator. A friend that has a 100 pound rare OHV head has run it for decades, on the street and racing without overheating/cracking.