question pleasedistributor
 

im having problems with my dist shaft building rust .the block casting where it narrows & goes thru the block . ive tried a gasket , a gasket with a thin coat of silicone , silicone along , grease . yes i oil it . it is crankcase moisture ?
thanks steve

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

Steve,
I read somewhere that Ford ground a flat side on "B" distributors to "vent" that area because of condensation & rusting.
Horror story: Minerva's first Mallory seized the "never lube" bearings from condensation & rust in that area and ruined the distributor in just 2,200 miles!:eek: I ground 2 flats on the new one and also built my P.C.V. system. Bill W.

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

I suspect your head gasket is leaking one of the water jackets in the area of the distributor. Try re-torquing the head. You can also add a tube of aluma-seal to the radiator. It works good at sealing water leaks in the block without pluging it and the radiator up. The other alternative is to replace the head gasket.

It is always a good practice to remove the distributor at each oil change. Clean and re-set the pounts and put a coat of grease around the base of the distributor housing. You don't have to reset the timing as long as you do not loosen the cam screw.

the distributor can easily rust in place and become difficult to remove if you don't occasionally remove it.

Tom Endy

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

thank you both . i have had them seize up . strange happening . i have put in a pcv system for crankcase pressure on long high speed trips . cleaning the dist is a good idea , so will do ......... thank you .. steve

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

I would coat it with antiseize. If you don't have that then use Mystik JT-6 High Temp grease.

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

Steve & Tom,
Another thing I've always done, on stock distributors, remove the locating dowel pin on dist, you can locate it by eyeball and the lockdown screw will hold it in place well.Then if it ever seizes, along with penetrating oil, you can rotate it to get the danged thing out. (Tip # 947):D Bill W.

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

Bill,
The lcok screw should not be that tight though. It should just touch the distributor, then tighten the lock nut.

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

i do have never seize . never thought of using it . thank you .. steve

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

Use it :). It gets everywhere anyway & you you can't wipe off for nuttin'

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

I like tom's procedure to remove the distrib at oil change. The lower shaft is stuck to the oil pump driver on the huckster, guess it would benefit from removal also. Bob

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

FS Ignitions sells a stainless shaft.

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

I think that it is a common problem. I use anti seize as has been mentioned. The problem is much worse with aluminum distributor housings, such as Mallory and others because of dissimilar metal reaction. When it has happened on our cars with Mallory distributors , I break out the large channel lock pliers, grasp the housing where it enters the head and gently rotate. I haven't ruined one yet.

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

i am taking all precautions . i will use all this info ... thanks all ............... steve

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

NEVER run the lock screw in tight to the distributor body. run it in to touch, then back of a titch.... 1/8 turn or so.

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

Anti Seize, Anti Seize , anti seize. Use it on that and almost every bolt. If you are going to own the car for a while, or care about the next owner of the car, anti seize makes things come apart easy years later. It should be used all the time.

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

Everyone,
Then it ain't even a LOCKSCREW! You can't get it TOO tight with slot screwdriver! That's why they built it with a slot instead of a hex head bolt in order to"IDIOT PROOF" it against someone crushing the distributor body! Is there anything on a Model A that just requires just "finger tight?"
Including front wheel bearings which some will not accept that they need to be pre-loaded for proper operation and long life and good circulation of the grease.
I try to help with good mechanical practices that have worked for me, try to dispell old wives tales & old husband's tales.:eek: I don't know everything, but I ain't no ROOKIE either. I sometime use CORNY humor to maybe help folks remember something really helpful that I've posted.
I tell my buddies that I have a "147" I.Q. and I type and talk HOKEY POKEY OKIE, so as not to intimidate anyone! Some ask for good advice, then just argue, argue, argue against it!
If I didn't make any "POINTS" with this harrange, that's O.K. I didn't have any points stored up when I got up this A.M! (But the dog still loves me!) Bill W.

Re: question pleasedistributor
 

DING!!! DING!!! DING!!! DING!!! DING!!!!!!! Bill, you are making points here. I agree I tighten mine. You've just got to have the correct torque at the elbow and use common sense. You can imagine how quick a Mallory or any other modern style distributor would slip out of time if the set screw wasn't given some tension. Not trying to be a disagreeable old poot and make anybody mad. I know where you are coming from. Thanks for your input.