No Power (Get up and go)
 

Got the sedan back together after doing a full mechanical resto, aside from a few other minor things, i've noticed I have little to no power. The timing is set at 0-28. The distributor is a Mallory built by Ron Kelley out of Texas. This distributor ran fine when we had it on our coupe. Checked the points and they're gapped at 20. Been messing the carb (Weber downdraft) too and that doesn't really seem to help any. Any suggestions?

Re: No Power (Get up and go)
 

Wow, a little further info on the symptoms would be of great help. Are the brakes dragging? Anything else change on the engine during the mechanical rebuild?

I would suggest that you get the car rolling in 1st gear up to about 10 mph, and then change to 2nd gear and do a flat-on-the-floor acceleration up to 50 mph and tell us what you experience. Does the vehicle pull off OK up to 25+/- mph but then fall flat or nose-over? Does the engine spit or miss as it is accelerating??

I could write a full page of causes but incorrect coil polarity will cause sluggish performance. Too slow of timing will cause it to be lazy all the way through the power band, too fast of timing will generally have good low end until the advance kicks in and detonation takes over, and the carburetor could be causing some effects too. I do not know where the carburetor came from but the 32/36 Weber's originally were manufactured for a 2000 ci (122 c.i.) 4 cylinder. Bolting them onto a 200+ c.i. Model A engine can cause them to be severely limited on CFMs. Only the ones that have been rejetted, --or came off of the V6s are big enough. The other thing I think I would try is swapping out the ignition system pieces since it will likely be the easiest to do.

Re: No Power (Get up and go)
 

Check you spark plugs for fouling and gap.
Jon

Re: No Power (Get up and go)
 

Could the muffler or exhaust be plugged?

Re: No Power (Get up and go)
 

I would think it's in the carb! But don't know too much about the weber downdrafts... let us know what you find

Re: No Power (Get up and go)
 

Gas flow, bad gas?? Define timing set "0-28". What engine work was done,or did it run all right before mech restoration?? Was it running BEFORE with the weber and mallory?? Or were they additions and haven't been run before??
Paul in CT

Re: No Power (Get up and go)
 

If the car ran fine before the restoration then back track what has changed. By finding out what it's not you find out what it is. I can tell you in addition to what has already been posted mis adjusted valves can cause your issue.

Re: No Power (Get up and go)
 

Maybe the timing cover is from a Model B which starts at 19 degrees advanced?

If so the timing is starting at 19 crankshaft degrees, then add the 28 at speed you get way too much advance.

Re: No Power (Get up and go)
 

Re: No Power (Get up and go)
 

take the darn air filter out of the weber !!! then give it a go with open carb . ......... used to be my major problem ...

Re: No Power (Get up and go)
 

Timing is set at 0 at 500rpm, jumps up to 28 at about 1500-2000rpm or so. Brand new Aries muffler. The distributor was rebuilt before it was put on the coupe and was not changed in any way when we put it on the sedan. It has a fuel pump on it that is pushing 2-3.5 lbs. Had the carb rebuilt by a shop in Fort Worth before it was put on the car. I have to adjust the idle/air screw all the way in for it to even run and it still smells like it's running really rich. Could they have put to big a jets in it when they rebuilt the carb? That the only thing I can really think of.

Re: No Power (Get up and go)
 

How about a vacuum leak at the manifolds??
Paul in CT

Re: No Power (Get up and go)
 

Weber's don't like that high fuel press (2-3.5psi). Put a fuel reg on it & dial it down to 1.0-1.5 psi. Its running to rich. Bet it fixes it. My Weber 44IDFs run about 1.0 psi on my VWs.


Joe,,,