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New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation 1 Attachment(s)
I am replacing my oil pan gasket for the third time. I seem to have a recurring leak at the rear of the pan. (Oil is not coming out the flywheel housing cotter pin hole). The last two gaskets I have used are the cork gaskets and I think I have over tightened the bolts and squeezed the gasket out. I just got a new gasket from Synders (see picture) and had a couple of questions:
1. Has anybody had experience with this? It says don’t use gasket sealers. I normally use a light sealer to glue the gasket to the engine side. Also, what about the interface between the rear main cap gasket and the engine flanges? 2. I also have a set of paper gaskets – is that the way to go? 3. Any chance my pan flanges could be warped? – I will check this. Thanks |
Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation I use trhe Snyder cork pan gaskets with good results. Follow the directions and torque it as recommended. I only use silicone sealer at the front and rear corners where it meets the other gaskets. It also helps to cut the heads off 4 bolts and screw them into the block. They will guide the pan on and help position the gasket. remove after you install the other bolts.
John |
Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation I just installed those and their instructions are a joke! It says to use no sealer. Ok, how do you hold the gasket against the block, and then install the rear main seal gasket against the pan gasket? Oh, I know, follow the instructions in the Les Andrews Mechanics Handbook. It says, "First rotate the engine upside down"!! Grrrrr.
Doing all this with limited space while the wife holds the oil pump from falling down. I used gasket sealer! I don't know if it will seal, but it saved a marriage! |
Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation Elcastor,you are right. I was thiking of installing pan with engine out. In the car we use patches of hi-tac gasket seal on the block.
The 4 guide studs help align the pan and compress the the oil pump spring. Lock the pump in with a locking tool available from suppliers cheap or make one from a pipe plug and a bolt. Tool screws into the hole in the block by the oil pump. John |
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Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation I installed those gaskets a few months ago. I used hi-tack in a spray can to get it to stick to the block.... sort of.
Pan seems to have sealed fine tho I had to drop it again for other reasons. Going to try the gasket set from Bratton's this time. Only reason being I figured i'd try both styles. |
Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation I have used this style with permatex 'aviation form-a-gasket' sealer and it works just fine.
Mike |
Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation Thanks for the responses. I am going to tackle it later this week. I have used the permex aviation gasket sealer before with great success to hold the gasket to the engine side. I may try the grease this time.
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Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation Maybe your flyweel housing to block is leaking. How are you sure that it is sealing?
You just must like rolling around on the floor for something to do. Ha! |
Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation Before you go to all the trouble it would be good to confirm the actual location of the leak. Remove the flywheel housing shield and wipe everything down well. As mentioned it COULD be coming down from the camshaft hole at the rear of the block. Additionally, many engine builders forget or neglect to true up the rear main cap surface. Many of these caps have been crudely filed over the years to take up bearing clearances and subsequently seep oil between the cap and block. This oil will usually exit the cotter hole in the flywheel housing, but not always.
If you do need to pull the pan then be sure the pan flange is flat. Over tightening the pan bolts over time can draw up the metal surrounding each bolt hole leaving the flange lower between bolts. This can be easily remedied with a hammer and dolly (and a little common sense). I use a 3/8" drive ratchet with a long extension to tighten the pan bolts. I position my hand right at the hub of the ratchet to reduce leverage and tighten by feel. Does anyone ever think about why a standard 1/2" wrench is so short? |
Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation The instructions that came with my gasket said to tighten to 6 ft lbs. Since that is the very bottom end of my torque wrench, I got a 1/4" inch-pounds torque wrench so that I could measure it more accurately. Obviously it doesn't take much, my gasket isn't leaking (so far!).
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All of this is a bit of a mystery for me as I had what local Model A folklore refers to as the smartest and best mechanic in Western Canada assist me with the engine rebuild last year. |
Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation one question was asked how to hold the gasket while installing the pan?
we used to use thread,tie the gasket to the pan or block whichever was easier,then before you tighten the bolts tight ,just snip the thread and finish tightening or some times we just left the thread in |
Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation mot, I love your avatar :)
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Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation I just wanted to update this post that I created earlier this year.
I installed the pan gasket earlier this summer using grease to hold it in place during the installation - which worked really well. I used a liberal amount of "right stuff" gasket sealer in the front and rear where the pan gasket intercepts the rear main gasket and the front rope seal. I also used allignment pins in the two front and two rear pan bolt holes which stopped the gasket from moving around when I pushed the pan up. The other thing I did was to put gasket sealer on all the pan bolts that go through into the crankcase. In hindsight I think this issue was causing my original leaking as the repo pan bolt threads likely were different than the female threads in the block. This cleared up the majority of the drips. I am down to the occaisonal drip or two ending up at the drainage plug - but fortunately nothing out of the cotter pin hole in the flywheel housing. Thanks for all your help and advice. |
Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation I always stick the side gaskets,with some permatex on the block first since the gasket tabs fit into the rear main groove before the rear cork is put in place &front tabs fit between upper & lower packing.Use grease on lower side of gaskets w-a small dab of permatex in the corners.With this method Ive used the same gaskets several times with no leaks.
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Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation i use the "ford" T handle tool . hard to over tighten at my age !
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Re: New Type Oil Pan Gasket Installation - Thanks Marco I just wanted to update this post. I had been fighting an oil leak coming from the back of my oil pan for a couple of years and tried various gaskets and installation techniques to no avail.
I ended up getting a new pan and bolted it on with the cork gaskets - problem solved. As Marco suggested, the pan flanges must have been warped. Thanks everybody. |
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