Seat Material Choices
 

Hello again, Everyone,
I may have the opportunity to purchase a highly original 1913 Touring car. Two major pluses going for it in my book are the engine has only about 100 miles on a professional rebuild by a well-respected, experienced rebuilder and the radiator is new from Brassworks. As of this moment I don't know the state of the car's other systems, thrust washer, etc. but that's beside the point for now.
OK, I said, "highly original" and from the photo I've seen at least the seat upholstery (maybe the whole interior) screams just that; it's very cracked and well-worn.
I poked around on Classtique's website and saw that one could choose between vinyl or leather material, both done in the same pattern as the original material however leather seat material kit is about $1,600 more than the vinyl. Would an owner be shooting himself in the foot by opting for the less expensive vinyl? Any serious advantages of going with leather? More, or less durable? More upkeep? I do like era correctness and the extra cash wouldn't kill me, but for trips to the grocery store, getting ice cream cones, or driving to local cruise-ins (maybe giving rides) or picnics in the park, is leather overkill? Does leather bump-up a car's desirability or "wow" factor?
Hey, I could keep it original and throw a blanket over the seats as well and call it a day!
Your thoughts are appreciated.
--Geo. K.

Re: Seat Material Choices
 

Leather requires periodic maintenance to make it last a long time. Well worn leather hide tends to crack along it's normal creases that form in service. The quality of the hide makes a big difference on longevity. Modern vinyl is durable but there can be quality issues with it as well. It outlasts the old book cloth that Ford used for faux leather back in the day. It wears well and doesn't crease as easy as leather. If kept out of the sun and elements, it will last a long time with less maintenance than leather requires. A lot of tufting buttons use vinyl covering even on a tufted leather job.

Re: Seat Material Choices
 

Thank you for your insight, rotorwrench.
This car won't be a daily driver and shouldn't be beat to heck as it's enjoyed.
I was wondering if vinyl coverings detract from an otherwise period-correct car, and that maybe I should "splurge" and be 100% correct, as long as I wouldn't have to stress about it getting wet if caught in a sudden cloudburst, or about it getting too much sun.
I collect WW2 Imperial Japanese Army rifles, and there's much discussion about how to care for / preserve the original leather slings that are often found still attached to them. There's no consensus as to which product to apply, and some say that anything "leather care-related" will cause speedier degradation to the leather than do any good. Nothing can soften hard / stiff leather. (I leave mine alone and flex them as little as possible.)
Everything is appreciated!

Re: Seat Material Choices
 

I've always used neetsfoot oil. Old hides like a natural oil like that to restore plyability issues. My Uncle brought home all sorts of Japanese equipment after Tarawa and other Marine Corp battles. He didn't get a long Arisaka but he did bring back a type 44 carbine as well as a type 94 pistol and a nice samurai sword. A friend of mine had a long type 99 Arisaka. It was rough and had no sling.

Re: Seat Material Choices
 

My Dad had a 1912 touring with the original upholstery in it. It sat for almost 40yrs. before I got it running for him. The upolstery was cracked and hard as a rock.
I put mink oil on it using my hands to massage it in. I did it every other day for 2 weeks
and it softened up that was 26yrs. ago and with regular applications by the new owner it has still survived.

Re: Seat Material Choices
 

Natural refined animal related oils are best. One thing a person should know is that some mink oil products use substitutions since the rendering of mink hides is not as common now as it once was. Substitutions could include neetsfoot or bovine related fats. Shark oils may also work but it's not listed as a substitute for either of the related leather softening products. Castor oil is also listed as a possible substitute but most folks may detect the odor of some substitutes.

Re: Seat Material Choices
 

Rotorwrench, very cool about your uncle's bring backs! I respect his service. There are three variations of the T44, everything depending on how far apart the bayonet fixture mounting screws are spaced. I own an all #s matching T94 pistol rig. Anywho, Neetsfoot oil and Pickard's leather dressing are two products commonly mentioned for the preservation of leather battle trophies. But as I mentioned, some collectors say they do more harm than good, so who knows? The other alternatives mentioned sound interesting and I'm mentally filing the info away. Should whatever I buy not require a boatload of cash to make presentable, I'll be able to swing leather. I like original as it left the factory, but I don't want to stress out over the possibility of an ice cream drip or bird poop getting on the material.

Re: Seat Material Choices
 

Dodge, I guess it depends on how much original leather remains to work with. I'm glad to read that regular mink oil applications worked for you in softening the hard leather. And with black material, there isn't much worry about discoloring it. Thanks for the input!

Re: Seat Material Choices
 

A lot of the modern leather materials are no longer just died to color them. They are coated in a process like painting to give them better wear and stain resistance as well as UV protection. They aren't like the stuff used back in the model T era.

Re: Seat Material Choices
 

Rotorwrench, that's encouraging to know. Originality for the historical purist in me, but with some added durability. For now, we'll see how my quest pans out.