97 question
 

Still having trouble with my Stromberg 97's.When I drive somewhere even if it a mile or so and stop come back in a few minutes and the car seems to be flooding have to crank it over and over and sometime have to pull the chock a little to get it to run.Sometime I press throttle a little and it runs but like it is loaded up.Have to clear it out then it runs ok.Have had this trouble for quite a while,Any suggestions on what to do Thanks.Have a Stromberg electric dist.and 2 of Strombergs 97's om this flathead.

Re: 97 question
 

What are you using for a fuel pump and do you have a low-pressure regulator between the pump and the carbs?

Re: 97 question
 

I have dual strombergs on a Edelbrock Regular manifold mounted on a 221 - I had the trouble that you describe. I am about 600 ft elevation. I have stock main jets, 71 power valves, blocked heat riser using cupped core plugs and 4-5 gaskets between the carbs and the manifold. Starts instantly when at operating temperature and shut down for 15 - 30 minutes. Your coil and condenser okay?

Re: 97 question
 

He has a Stromberg E-Fire. Which, of course, opens up a whole new set of problems.:(

Re: 97 question
 

I thought electronic ignition was supposed to be the solution for any engine problem?

If you don’t have a good fuel pressure regulator, you need one.

Re: 97 question
 

fuel pressure is set at 2psi.I think I will change coil.I'm in Ga.I have 2 inch spacers under carbs made out of phenolic.Electric fuel pump.Thought it might be fuel leaking when I shut it off.I have talked to Clive at Stromberg about this but can't seem to get it right.I want it to fire right up when I get in it after I drive it and stop.Thanks

Re: 97 question
 

Have you checked with a voltmeter the starter cables for voltage drop? Is the positive terminal of the battery connected to the firewall and the engine ground connected also to the firewall about 18 inches from the firewall connecting the battery positive? If so, the steel in the firewall is a poor conductor of electricity - voltage drop!!!. I ran a 24 inch one gauge copper cable from battery positive to the engine ground strap connected to the firewall. Got rid of the voltage drop - should give more voltage to the coil.

The phenolic spacers are good, but I would block the heat risers with cupped core plugs.

Re: 97 question
 

My battery is in the trunk.Bought the cable kit from Painless.I will change the coil first but will remove the top of carbs to see about float level an pull carbs off after I drive some to see if the have a leak after shut it down.Thanks.This is about to drive me crazy.

Re: 97 question
 

I have had problems restarting with the engine hot, two times. Both times it was the coil. In your case it happens after only a few miles; but you live in Georgia. Be sure you have the right combination of coil resistance and ballast resistor for your ignition setup.

Re: 97 question
 

no ballast resistor on the E Fire.Will change coil

Re: 97 question
 

Normally I would say your carbs are flooding when it's parked but then you said you sometimes need to close the choke a little to get it to run, that would give it less air and make the problem even worse if it was already getting too much fuel. Have the carbs adjustments been done properly, both carbs idle blade openings adjusted the same, the idle air fuel adjustments balanced. The float levels are correct.

Re: 97 question
 

I synced the carbs with one of those tools you put on top of each carb and adjusted the throttle to the same %.Then adjusted air bleed best I can.Haven't checked float level level yet.Got too many projects to work on.But will get to it.Some times I push the accelerator pedal down and it will fire up but it acts like it is flooded.Thanks