The Ford Barn - First start

The Ford Barn (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/index.php)

- Model A (1928-31) (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=3)

- - First start (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=303652)

Over the course of the summer, I have slowly been working on the '29 RPU that my dear uncle had been building when he unexpectedly passed away in 1990. His son (my cousin), had taken ownership and was in the process of continuing the build until he and his kids lost interest over the past 28 years. At that point it became mine. Following guidelines from this forum and the Les Andrews books, I was able to attach the distributor and time it correctly using the Nu-wrench. I could never seem to find the 'dimple' using the timing pin, so I simply used a small light into #1 cyl. to find TDC, then followed the process.

The carb. attached was a Tillotson looking very much like the Zenith, but it leaked like a sieve. I rebuilt a Marvel (Allstate) and put that on instead. I had good spark when the points 'broke' so I hooked up a small gas tank, sprayed some starting fluid into the carb. throat and she fired right up...for about 5 sec. The carb. started spilling gas so I shut it right down. I found the float was stuck when I took it apart. I fixed that, put it back together and tried to start it again....to no avail! Nothing...zip, nadda...not even a hint of firing up even with spray fluid.

Discovered I had electricity at the coil, but the points weren't breaking. I cleaned them...nothing. Next was the condenser...put a new one in. Nothing!
Took out the distributor...cleaned it up, checked for shorts. Replaced, re-timed, again...nothing! At this point, the hot humid days were getting to me, so I walked away from it for a month or so.

Today, I decided it was time to try again. Even though the points worked initially, I figured I may as well put in the new set I got. Hooked them up, made sure connections were tight, and gap was correct. Re-timed again, then checked for 'breaking'. VOILA...good spark again. Put everything together, opened the GAV 3/4 turn, hit the starter button, and in 3 or 4 revolutions she fired right up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No choke needed either.

This engine has been sitting after rebuild since 1990. This was the first start and there are no noises, rattles, or ticks....so far. I drove it out of the garage, and added water which began seeping from the hose connections. Most of them sealed themselves, but I have few areas that need tightening.

Even though I'm used to antique jeep engines on initial start-up, there's always a feeling of accomplishment when one's work/troubleshooting results in bringing an old vehicle back to life....I'm as giddy as a teenager! Now it's time to begin putting her back together to once again traverse the roads in town.

Craig

Congratulations! Yes a very good feeling trying to get so many different areas working properly at the same time. Christmas in September…… :)

Always like a good story. Enjoy that ride !

Tiny Tip: Sometimes that dimple isn’t very deep. If I can’t feel it with the timing pin, I’ll use a stubby phillips head screwdriver. That pointy end gives you a better chance of feeling a shallow or undersized dimple.

Also, usually a half turn on the GAV is adequate for starting.

�� Let the party begin! Congrats on your first start up.

Mike

Great story. I love it when someone is able to fire up an older vehicle for the first time. I remember rebuilding a couple different 235 Chevy engines in a 1947 and 1948 chev and remember the feeling. Every time I fire up my 28 roadster I take it for a spin around the block and my neighbors love my ahogga horn and car.

Thanks for the remarks all. Since I couldn't make it to any Model A shows this weekend, I spent the day 'bonding' with mine
As an update, still having some issues getting the hoses to stop dripping water at the connections. I removed the lower pipe and hoses, cleaned them up. Those 'old style' clamps just don't have the ability to really tighten down to create the seal I need it appears. Should I run it awhile to get nice and hot and hope it seals itself, or should I go with modern hose clamps? This will be a fun driver, not a 'points car'.

Also cleaned up the cast sediment bulb, painted and hooked up with new fuel lines. Put in 1/4 tank of gas, gage works as does the shut off valve. But when I switched it on, found that the bulb has a hairline crack at the outlet hole....leaked gas all over my nice paint job (of the bulb). Found 2 other cast bulbs in my stash of parts and cleaned them both up too. The one with no cracks has rusted out threads on the inlet portion of the fuel line...it leaked at that point. The 3rd bulb has a crack in the body, so before I try it out, I JB Welded the crack and am letting it sit to bench test this time BEFORE painting and attaching to firewall. If all 3 turn out to be unusable, what are my options? I see there are glass bowls available...but I kind of like that 'old' look to the cast iron versions....my RPU is a '29.

It seems they are prone to cracking, from the ones I have anyway. If so, what could be the reason....age? brittleness? vibration?

Thanks for help guys (and gals).

Craig

The hoses usually leak becsuse of pitting on the outlet or inlet. Put some permatex on them and you won't have any issues.

If your cast fuel bowl situstion doesn't work out, I have at least one restored one I can sell you that has no cracks or bad threads. Or you could go with the glass one.

Most of the old style reproduction hose clamps are of very poor quality and will not clamp tightly clear around the hose. Some of the better parts suppliers offer good quality "old style" hose clamps or if you are going to use the car as a driver, you may want to consider "modern" hose clamps.

My opinion,

Chris W.

I use some grease on the inside of the hoses to facilitate getting them on (and off) and getting them to seal. I found the modern hose clamps better than the old style. I tighten them up with a socket and small ratchet wrench, which makes a tighter clamp than just a screw driver, but I am careful not to strip the threads. There are different quality modern hose clamps. The ones available from marine supply houses usually are better quality.

I like the glass sediment bulbs because I can see if any crap is coming from the tank.

I don't like the glass ones because they are more prone to leaking. Ford didn't like them either because they stopped using them after a short period.

Well, looks like I'll try the grease trick and use modern hose clamps. Spent the morning filling the 'pits' in the lower pipe, hooking it back up, then tightening down hard on the old clamps. Tested the sediment bulb, then re-attached. Filled the radiator, turned on the gas....and down the road I went for its first test drive. Drives real well but.....hoses still 'weep' and 3rd sediment bulb leaks also! Grrrrrrrrr! :mad:

After lunch I'll try ONE MORE time with the hoses and bulb before I change course and try working on other things (brake adjustment, attaching dash cluster, hooking up light switch. etc.) to maintain my sanity.

Craig

If you buy modern (worn drive) hose clamps be sure to get ones that are all stainless steel. Some are made w/SS band and plated steel on the drive part, they will rust and give problems.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 700rpm (Post 2055460)

When you do find it rip off some of the wives nail polish and dab some in the dimple - if will last forever and is easy to find with a mirror.

John

Quote:

Originally Posted by slatgrille (Post 2056101)

Spray the out side of the hose with silicone spray, It will keep the hose from "bunching" up under the clamp causing a leak.

John

Thanks for the suggestions katy and aermotor, but I'm divorced so no nail polish (not a guy who's into looking feminine). I was also successful at sealing up the hoses using the grease and modern clamps. I'm just waiting overnight before I turn the gas on to see if the last sediment bulb leaks....crossing my fingers it doesn't. Dash cluster is in also.

Tues I'll try brake adjustments, and putting the hood on...if I have time. Too much time spent on the 'ole girl lately. I need to catch up on laundry and dishes! Being a single dad...I can't spend ALL my time in the garage. :(

Plus, I have a jeep engine to machine and rebuild, a 1940 John Deere H to start, a 1948 Plymouth that needs a headliner AND a prototype Ford jeep to restore from the ground up! Oh, and I need to find a woman who will tolerate all these projects.....

Craig

Hope you're slim and trim! Those roadster pickups can be a tight fit.

I'm 5' 9" and husky, but I'm used to 'tight fits' since I drive jeeps (see avatar). I'll close this thread with the latest update. No more water leaks, sediment bulb is a lot better, but still has tiny seepage from the bottom drain area...I'll put some sealer around the lead washer. Did first adjustment of brakes, and attached exhaust system...what a PITA that is! Damn cast pipe flange didn't fit, so I did some grinding. Began tightening it down slowly until....one half broke in two. Found an old original flange half, so used that with the remaining half. It holds...for now. I'll find a better one later on.

With the muffler attached however, I am hearing an engine 'knock' that I couldn't before..... : (