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Steve T. 12-15-2016 11:17 AM

Coils
 

Hi everyone,, Who knows about ignition coils ? I seem to be frying them! I put a PERTONIX IGNITOR electronic ignition with the recomended FLAME-THROWER coil in my 1946 1 ton v8 flathead,it ran for a short while-then stopped. I put the regular coil back on (MACS AUTO) and it ran fine for quite a while, maybe 35 miles . The truck was sitting in the garagre running - and seemed to shut it self off ! No spark,I checked everything I could think of. I'm thinking fried coil, I just don't know why. any thoughts ?
Thanks

40cpe 12-15-2016 01:01 PM

Re: Coils
 

I had a Pertronix for years in a 302 with never a problem until one night it just stopped. Burned up the unit, put another one on, promptly burned it up. Turns out the coil went bad. In the process I learned that the sticker on the side of the ignitor will show a burned spot if it is the ignitor unit burned up. You have to be cautious about the ohm rating of the coils you put on the pertronix units.

Other than that, check the input voltage to the coil. I've found the Pertronix tech people very helpful.

Steve T. 12-15-2016 04:23 PM

Re: Coils
 

Thanks for the input; that gives me food for thought.

BUBBAS IGNITION 12-15-2016 10:42 PM

Re: Coils
 

You are using the incorrect coil for that ignition. Check the primary resistance , it must be 1.5 ohms or a little higher or it will overheat and often times hurt the module as well.
(if its 12 volts)

If its positive ground and volt then you really do have problems . I am assuming its six volt with a generator ???

Trouble all the way round.

Drbrown 12-15-2016 11:01 PM

Re: Coils
 

Having fought through five burn-outs with Pentronix modules during four months I'm very interested in this conversation. Very unpredictable. Left issue unresolved and installed a stock points distributor with Bosch Blue coil. Happy driver now.

Paul Bennett 12-16-2016 03:11 AM

Re: Coils
 

Another manufacturer (who shall go unnamed) had an air flow sensor. When the engine shuts down for any reason, intentional or not, the ignition voltage and fuel pump shuts off. Power is only returned when the start button is pressed again. Would this feature be worth $30 or so if available in an easy to install module?

Another way to accomplish leaving your vehicle without shutting off the ignition is to place a pressure switch under the driver's seat. You would need an additional ignition bypass switch, say in the engine compartment, if you intend to run your engine while out of the driver's seat.

Everything - anything - is doable automatically (witness today's computerized cars) - just depends upon your clearly defined goals. If you want to protect your ignition components as cheaply as possible you simply must engage your brain to perform the task for you. As I suspect more will choose to continue doing.

JSeery 12-16-2016 07:28 AM

Re: Coils
 

I run oil pressure switches on all my engines. They shut off the ignition when there is no oil pressure present.

Frank Miller 12-16-2016 08:04 AM

Re: Coils
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery (Post 1400265)
I run oil pressure switches on all my engines. They shut off the ignition when there is no oil pressure present.

so you need to bypass that when starting the engine?

tubman 12-16-2016 08:15 PM

Re: Coils
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank Miller (Post 1400269)
so you need to bypass that when starting the engine?

Yep, just like the ignition switch "Start" position bypasses the ballast resistor while "Run" does not.


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