![]() |
Stroker 21 stud Guys looking for input here ! I have a 37 core engine .
I was talking to a very good friend on mine last Friday (well known flathead builder from LA) about building a 21 stud to put his NEW Sharp heads on (I have a very large collection of Sharp speed equipment) & he suggested I put a 4in Merc crank in it . Well after some thought , I would have to grind Merc crank mains to 37 size , cut the counter weights down plus grind rod journals down to 2" , use a set of NOS 21A rods so all of that comes with a nice bill from my crank guy . So here's what I think I may do , take a 37 crank (I even have a NOS one) have my crank guy weld the rod journals & make it a 4" crank , he confirmed today that he can do that for me no sweat . I would bore it to 3 3/16 & of course it would get the "Famous" KiWi-L100 cam!!! Th 37 crank I believe would be way lighter I believe (Brian from NZ will like that !) So what do you think guys ???? Cheers Tony |
Re: Stroker 21 stud I'd say talk to Walt... Maybe talk to a 'higher authority' to get that bore. :)
|
Re: Stroker 21 stud Quote:
|
Re: Stroker 21 stud That JM don't miss a lick,he always correcting me too.
|
Re: Stroker 21 stud Don't you have to do a offset bore on early blocks and 4+ cranks...
|
Re: Stroker 21 stud Quote:
|
Re: Stroker 21 stud Just imagine if we could bore a '37 block to 4-3/16"
4.1875" x 4.1875" x 4" stroke x 8 cylinders x 0.7854 = ~ 441 cubic inches We might tear up some transmissions and break a few axels with that one :) |
Re: Stroker 21 stud Several years ago, I cut down an 8BA to 2.398, had to increase the width of the front and center maind aprox.'050" Bored the block to 3 3/16, installed an L-100 cam.
This engine went into Paul Howard's (AV9 Paul)roadster and is still there. This was a prelude to installing a 4" crank I used 8 BA rods and the engine spun a bering after 20k plus miles. Thank goodness Walt fixed it. The engine ran very well and was clocked by the Arazona SP at 105 MPH, so I was told. Yes it would be expensive, but I just wanted to prove a point and it worked. |
Re: Stroker 21 stud Just a thought, why not line bore too 2.498" and use the 81A bearings? If I did it, I'd bore it 3 3/16" and use 8BA rods and bearings. Sure this would be a chunk more cost effective. Yes the 21 stud crank is lighter, would you be able to feel the difference? I doubt it. With a welded and stroked 21 stud crank, you wallet would be considerably lighter!
Now about these Sharp 21 stud heads? Martin. |
Re: Stroker 21 stud Quote:
|
Re: Stroker 21 stud Are they centre outlets 37- early 38 type? Have they got a price? I don't do face book.
Martin. |
Re: Stroker 21 stud Quote:
Sorry guys typo on the bore size = wishful thinking ! My crank guy can fix me this crank for a very reasonable cost . It would cost me more to rework a Merc crank. I just have to decide whether to pull crank from my core engine & give him or have him use the NOS crank I have .:D |
Re: Stroker 21 stud 7 Attachment(s)
Quote:
|
Re: Stroker 21 stud Thanks for that John, they do look sharp! If they got those patterns maybe they got the four carb manifold pattern too. That would be brilliant. I want me a Sharp four two.
Martin. |
Re: Stroker 21 stud Quote:
Martin. |
Re: Stroker 21 stud Quote:
Depending on how much nitro was applied, they usually lasted about 10 to 15 runs. I welded several for circle track engines running on gas and they never had any problems with them. I even made a 4.75 stroker once. We welded diesel truck cranks every day and never had any problems with them. |
Re: Stroker 21 stud Quote:
|
Re: Stroker 21 stud Quote:
Martin. |
Re: Stroker 21 stud Pete I would think a lot of clearance in the block would be needed for the 4.750 stroke ending up opening into the water passage was the block filled solid?
Ron |
Re: Stroker 21 stud I hope Brian chimes in on this thread. He is a demon with the early engines.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:43 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.