Head Studs Problem
 

I didn't do a very good job of explaining this before, hopefully this is better. The picture of the nuts shows them finger tightened, there is no head gasket in place. You can see that the nuts only go on half way. I pulled the studs and remeasured and they are what the parts catalogue says they should be. They were all seated properly. Only the 4 6066 studs are long enough to use. Measuring through the stud holes, the top of the head is 1.937" thick, the bottom is 1.25". Are these heads for some reason thicker than others? Are there longer studs available? Would appreciate any help as I am stumped.:confused:

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

Senior moment.

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

Iron heads didn't have washers, how is the fit without washers

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

X2 on the washers. Only used on aluminum heads.

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

Well, I took the head off, replaced the head gasket, put the head on without washers and when the nuts are just tightened, not torqued, they come within 1 and a half threads of being flush with the top of the studs. If that sounds right, I'm good to go. Thank you.

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

Differences in head studs apparent length is usually due to how far the block end of the studs were turned down sometime when the engine was overhauled. A number of the stud holes actually enter the water jacket. At our shop we see threads in the block that have been distorted by being chased with a threading tap instead of a thread cleaning tap, extending threads further than originally. Old cast iron can be very fragile.

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

I would say that you are indeed good to go. Remembering the 3 heat cycles to go through for checking and retorque, after initial fit and torque.
Best of luck for leak free.
Phil NZ

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

I have some studs that are like that on my motor.

I don't know about yours, but if the studs have only just been fitted, I'd be tempted to fine tune them. If the studs are in blind holes (are any?) I'd put a blob of weld on the end of the stud and use that to set the height of the stud. If a through hole, maybe some sort of stud lock goop could be applied and the stud set in to a specific length. Maybe doing that on all would be better than welding.

Never done either of the above, just thinking what would I do in your shoes. (Assuming you don't want to buy new studs.

I didn't fancy removing mine, so I put up with some of them looking like yours. They are holding a 45-50 lb ft torque all right.

Mart.

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

Could someone have used a tap to enlarge the threaded holes?
Bruce

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

lose the washers...

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

Building these for a living we strongly recommend using washers between the head bolt holes and the nuts regardless of the casting material, aluminum or iron.

We would never run the aluminum w/o the washers. It helps "save" the castings and stops the nuts from "digging" into them as well.

We have "special" thin washers specific for this application, we use them on all the 100% stock-appearing SB and BB Chevy's we build and we use them on all our Flathead's as well! They are barely noticeable when installed.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a couple shots of some fasteners with them, you can see how "thin" they really are!

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

I am sorry, I don't have a solution for you and I don't really know what I'm talking about, but I would not be comfortable using them as is.
Again just my opinion.

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

Ya know, I'm "Not George" either, but I agree with him.

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

I am kind of crude. I would measure and figure out how far they need to be out of the deck. Set them and a little lock tight and done.
If they are the overall right length, they will have proper engagement in the block. I would not have nuts without threads showing.
The fine threads in the nut means the nut will want to turn on the stud rather than the stud turning on the course threads in the block.

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

I'm with Andy. I'm kinda crude too.

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

Crude I can handle. Is this something you've done with success? I assume the lock tight negates the need to use thread sealer. Should be interesting. Thanks to all for the suggestions.

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

We use a Permatex sealer on the block end of the head studs. Using a expoxy product to seal the studs is overkill, and can make stud removal in the future difficult to impossible.

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

After all I've read, I was thinking Loctite Red 272, or Permatex Red. Not really experienced with either. Any pros or cons?

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

Just wondering why are you using studs? bolts solve all this.....X2 for permatex #2

bolts you know the way Henry assembled them.

Re: Head Studs Problem
 

If you have the proper Ford studs, there is a shoulder that will seat at the head surface. They can not be screwed in too far.