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Bypass the Resistor? Been having trouble with my '47 for a couple of years with hard starting and dieing from idle, especially when hot. It probably was a case of a few things at once going wrong. Tore down the distributor yesterday and found little wrong except the left side points fried. When I bought the car the original coil was paralleled with a replacement coil of unknown voltage rating. Perhaps the previous owner knew something was faulty. That was replaced with a Drake repop and the condenser replaced with an over priced Echlin from Napa. There has also been a parade of 94s and a 92. Several things just weren't right. When cold the car ran strong today then would not restart. With the distributor freshened up it was back to the jumpers to track down the possible trouble. Full six volts from the battey cleared up the rough running at idle and the engine would start as normal. This leaves the resistor or the switch as part of the problem. I am concerned that running on full six volts all the time would shorten point life and put more heat into the coil and condenser. Could the Drake coil really be just a 12V unit that happens to run on less? In a world of carelessly made replacements it has to be asked. Would you bypass the resistor or what? Thanks: Fred A
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Re: Bypass the Resistor? FRED A .....................
Do not by-pass the resistor. You will melt the coil. Back in the "Old Days", some people would put a switch on the resistor, to give them more spark, for starting in cold weather, but would switch back on, after starting. It sounds like your coil could be the problem. A good idea is to have Skip Haney rebuild an original one for you. MIKE :) |
Re: Bypass the Resistor? Maybe your points are from an off shore manufacturer and not the good quality USA made parts. Ken CT who posts here sells good USA replacement parts for early Ford V8 distributors. He will also completely rebuild your distributor. You may want to consider sending an original core coil to Skip Haney and let him rewind it for you with modern insulated materials. I believe he can also adjust the wire turns per coil/AWG to give you a hotter spark. As far as eliminating the resistor, what I would suggest is just do this during start up using a momentary contact switch that takes the resistor out of the circuit for start up but brings the resistor back into the circuit after the engine is running. If you eliminate the resistor completely you will be burning points frequently. JMO
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Re: Bypass the Resistor? With dual points one makes other brakes,so one set will show more burning.Get new set,new napa conderser,and run a 6 volt Dodge ,plymouth 1949 thur 1953 coil full power.
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Re: Bypass the Resistor? Quote:
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OK. The Resistor is Next Found a couple of resistors on a Zephyr coil hanging on the wall. They measure wildly different at around 50 ohms with my China multimeter. Couldn't hurt giving them a try. Strangely the offending resistor measures nearly a dead short which should have equivalent to a bypassed resistor, but must not be able to conduct the load or ? Also have yet another coil which can be put in if needed. By the strength of the response, the resistor stays, even if it is a replacement. Thanks for the responses. Seems to be getting close to a solution to this problem which has lasted years. Fred A
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Re: Bypass the Resistor? Why dont you fix it right instead of trying all these mumbo jumbo parts that are hanging on the wall,OMO. ken ct.
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Beyond bypass with reduced mumbo jumbo.. Got a NOS circuit breaker board from one of Los Angeles' vendors. The Ignition resistor rides on that board. That may be the last component in the circuit that can be called the ignition except perhaps the ignition switch, which soon will be checked also. I have replaced the spark plug wires, spark plugs, the entire 6v wiring harness, ignition points, condenser(3 times), coil(3times), distributor caps, and four carburators to make as complete as possible. Among the least flattering assumptions, that I have damaged a component on install such as stuffing the reluctant spark plug wires into the cap, or grossly screwed up the points install and timing(using the two ruler method). Although symptoms are changing in minor ways, the constants are that the car is very difficult to start when hot, the engine dies when idleing and runs very rough, mostly but not limited to when warmed up. I jump the coils with full 6v and this clears most if not of the misfire and allows easier starting when the engine is at running temperature. I can not say hot because the weather has been so cool. Digital meters often give misleading readings of such circuits so out comes the old scope to take some measurements, trying to get a clue. Thanks again for the responses and warnings that have kept me from short term fixes that are bound to just delay the problems. Fred A
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Re: Bypass the Resistor? Sounds like you may have a coil that has an internal resistor meaning that when you use your resistor you are cutting the juice to the points down to low,I would not use the under dssh resistor just MHO
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Re: Bypass the Resistor? You keep getting the same results,I would see if you can find another dist.If the bearing are worn,setting the points,could be changing.Also try and get a 49thur 53 Ford coil,Plymouth,dirrect from battery.Get it to run and idle first.When setting points both gaps the same try .015
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Re: Bypass the Resistor? I had similar problem with my 36-ran great for first 15 min, then rough and would not start until engine cooled down for about 30 min. Engine is rebuilt 59A with modern coil that was installed with the under dash resistor still in place. I had full power until engine warmed up,then not enough power. The under dash resistor was bypassed and problem was eliminated.
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Re: Bypass the Resistor? Those old resistors have to heat up to drop the voltage. Through years and years of heating cycles the copper wire inside will crack. After cracking has happened, when it heats up further the wire will barely pass electro motive force and eventually it will open the circuit altogether. I would replace that resistor just for piece of mind if nothing else. Now who makes the best replacement out there, I can't answer.
Kerby |
Re: Bypass the Resistor? I have a mallory dual point on my 50 merc motor. I figured since it was 6 volt I didnt need a resistor. Wrong! I would get about 500 miles out of the condensor,I cant count the times it left me along side the road.I googled mallory asked them what coil and resistor they recommended. After installing their recommended parts it wouldnt start unless I jumped around the resistor. I found a 6 volt VW relay and wired it in , works like a charm! Plus I dont have to remember the bypass switch.Only gives 6 volts to the coil when cranking.
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Re: Bypass the Resistor? Another make car has an extra contact in the starter solenoid that bypasses the resistor. I recently bought an aftermarket starter for that make engine and the new starter came without the resistor bypass contact. The instruction sheet advises that a wire can be connected to the lead going into the starter motor and feed to the ignition switch side of the coil with a 10 amp diode in series to keep the ignition voltage from feeding back to the starter. Make sense?
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Re: Bypass the Resistor? Quote:
Whats the world comming to, I'll swear. Kerby |
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