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Model T Forum Fever Is it feed a cold and starve a fever or starve a cold and feed a fever. Well tomorrow it is going to be 50 deg and no rain so I am getting in my 26 Tudor and heading west until I feel I am over Forum Fever. I hope I am cured before I hit an ocean. |
To be Percise "Fliver Forum Fever " N/M N/M |
Had to look it up ... flivver n. [Old Slang] a small, cheap automobile, esp. an old one Suits most of the cars I know |
Re: Model T Forum Fever <center>http://www.modelthaven.com/graph/vc806.jpg</center> Joe, I also have the fever, Head towards New York, ill met you 1/2 way. Hope the pic works. Bob |
Re: Model T Forum Fever That is a 23/24 right? How did you get the finish so brilliant? It looks like the old ones did when they used the garden hoses and the varnish. Please tell us step by step if you will (primer and type and coats, emery and type and when, color and type, etc. Also, how did you finish the last coat? Any special polishing compound. That Tee just gleams ! ! ! IT looks like a mirror ! ! ! Dennis O |
Re: Model T Forum Fever <center>http://www.modelthaven.com/graph/vc806.jpg</center> Dennis, Ive been painting cars since I was 15. There is over a 1000 hrs of prep work & block sanding done to that car from top to bottom. It's never the paint, it's always the prepwork. Give me a day or two & I will e-mail you a step by step list.It is a low rad 23. Bob |
Re: Model T Forum Fever Absolutely beautiful. I'm sure your step by step list would be of great interest to lots of folks here and at MTFCI forum. Hey, it really has that "just poured on look" that I was getting with original formula Ford flow paint. Alas... Reid |
Re: Model T Forum Fever Reid; what was original Ford flow paint? |
You asked, You got it! 1st thing do one pannel at a time.Start by media blasting both sides to remove all paint, prime & rust, as this also etches the metal at the same time.If the pannel needs no repairs & is realy strait, prime it with a two part urethane prime 2-3 coats. If the pannel is in need of dent repair you will need a bodymans hammer & dolly & slapfile. Take your time & work it all out. Weld all cracks with a mig welder, small holes can be filled by holding a chunk of brass from the back side. Grind all repairs smooth as possible. Coat entire pannel with a product called Iceing by 3M. It's a non srinking two part product that goes on very smooth & creamy & drys rock hard.Also by skimming the entire pannel there is no need for feather edging. Once dry start block sanding with 80 then 180, you will also need a flexible block for the rounded areas. When block sanding go from L to R & R to L sorta like a X . make sure to round off all edges, Blow off all dust, tac rag. 2-3 coats of urethane prime. Let cure Block sand again this time with 400-500 WET edges by hand. Optional on a black car I like to put down a coat of black non sanding epoxy prime-makes a nice base.Prepare entire paint area by hanging plastic shething on celling & walls then wet everthing with the hose. If you don't have a exaust fan put a box fan in the window & leave garage door open 2 inches at the bottom to pull fresh air.Don't paint at night or every bug it town will be in your paint.Blow off all dust, wash with prep sol or alochal wipes, wipe with tac rag. Paint, 1st use a new gun. I think for the DIY most user freindly would be DBU bc/cc 2-3 coats of coulor, if you see something you don't like you can wait 1/2 hr or so wet sand it out & recoat it. Let dry for 1 hr & you are ready for clearcoat, 3 coats is more than enought. The car in the pic was sprayed in a booth with a catalized acrylic enamal with a very slow dry reducer, not so user friendly but has instant results. Both types of paint can be wet sanded W/1500-2000 wet & polished with microfinishing coumpound, then finish up with a finishing wheel, hand glazed & waxed. If you ask 5 different bodymen "how to" you will get 5 different answers.This is the way I like to do it & the results speak for them self. BTW plan on spending aprox $600 in paint, clear, prime & material. Good luck with your project!! Bob Nowak |
Re: Model T Forum Fever As Keith learned, Carl, there are some things you don' wanna' know, and I think Reid's trials, tribulations and triumphs with Gilsonite are one of them. Actually, it's a Great story, but with a less than happy ending, so far. It's worthy of permanently posting onto a site, and just an inkling of what can come from trouble-making ex-members like him. rdr |
Re: You asked, You got it! Bob-thanks for taking time to post the how-to for a great paint job.you answered alot of questions for me.I have a decent compressor and I'll get a good gun and go for it.take care, Mark. |
Re: Model T Forum Fever I have to tell you, I've spent many, many, many hours with Bob and his car - the pictures don't do it justice. This is far and away the nicest black T around... without question, a 100+ point car. Look for it at a show near you! :) Doc |
By the way... Why are our IP addresses showing? I never noticed that before. DOn't like it one bit! Doc |
Re: By the way.. But whoa!. Doc, maybe it is intentional. If so- what's the harm? (i don't know) AND what's the good: put some brakes on malicious impersonators. Reid |
Flow paint Carl, go read Trent's article "All Model T's Were Black". You will find it by going to the MTFCA home page. Select "Encyclopedia" then go look at paints and finishes. Part way done a long page is Trent's article. That's what got me going. The recreation was a complete success and a _lot_ of frustration! And it was a _failure_ for my car, because the stuff really requires a high temperature bake at 400F between coats. IF you bake it, it becomes like black porcelain. Only infinitely blacker, and absolutely smooth at polished plate glass. That is, if bugs don't light before the stuff dries to the touch, and the liquid is of ideal viscosity and the temperature isn't too hot or too cold. No wonder original Fords were bright shiney, but often exhibit little flaws (grin) in the paint. I'll write more about Ford baked enamel another time if you are interested. I'll put the story up on the MTFCI forum, and here too. Reid |
Re: By the way... It's a great idea - keeps honest people honest. Notice there are no more garbage posts because the perpetrators can be readily identified. ALL webservers track this, although it may not be obvious. |
Even better than sliced bread Now when someone does mischief we all will know who they are. |
Re: By the way.. But whoa!. Actually, it is a concern. I was well aware of the fact that the site administrators can ALWAYS see IP addresses, but putting your IP address out in public view is a different matter altogether. It isn't about keeping "honest people honest" it's about opening your machine up to an easy attack by hackers, who won't need to "find" a machine to hack - you've just given them the full address. If it stays this way, I won't be posting here anymore (not that I post here all that often anyway). Cheers, Doc |
Re: By the way.. But whoa!. I see. But tell me, can my home computer on a dial-up be hacked? Win 98, no auto connection. No firewall. Reid |
Re: Even better than sliced bread Yes- So for that reason I am glad. Joe, sorry some scoundrel messed with you the other day. Makes me just as angry as if I were the victim. Also- a big thanks from me for your kind words and your always constructive comments. cheers, Reid |
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