Sick Horn
 

I have had a sick horn for a long time. This is common. It will only ahooga when the engine is reving. I took it apart and let the horn motor run for a while. It went faster and faster and got more powerful as it ran. When I put it back together, it was like a new horn. You might try this to make your horn sound better. Not sure if this fix will last. The little motor really does not run very much and the initial start up is critical so your first honk sounds good. I think it needs to run more, so a little run-in every once in a while is probably good for it.

Re: Sick Horn
 

No need for me to do that Jack. I'm ALWAYS tooting my own horn.;).

Great tip, thanks. Jeff

Re: Sick Horn
 

My horn doesn't work very well when it is cold out. Was probably lubed with too heavy an oil. But yes after blowing it several times it tends to sound better. The neighbors probably think I'm crazy.

Re: Sick Horn
 

I had a horn that sounded like a sick cow the first 4 or 5 times that you blew it, then it would start to go ahooga. It sounded great on the bench but sick on the car. I tried another horn with the same results. I then used a heavy duty jumper wire from the horn to ground to bypass the horn button for a test and it sounded very strong and good every time. I put a meter on the horn button and measured 2 ohms, it should be 0 ohms. It is a reproduction horn rod and I removed it and took it apart, everything looked good inside except the wire at the top end where the brass connector is crimped on was black with corrosion. I cleaned the wire and soldered it to the connector. I put dielectric grease on all the contact parts under the button and put it back in the car. The horn now sounds very good and strong with the engine on or off and never sounds like a cow.

Re: Sick Horn
 

One thing I've found over the past 30 years is that the Model A horn takes a great deal of juice. If it isn't grounded, it doesn't work well. I bought the "relay" that goes inside the horn cover. I never put it in yet, but some day will. I hate to loosen my headlight nut as my headlights are aimed so good, but will someday fix the ground problem. Just my thoughts

Re: Sick Horn
 

I'm sure someone will post that you need to clean your commutator, someone more experience with horn motors than I :-)

Re: Sick Horn
 

The horn grounds through the horn button (blue wire with yellow tracer)
not the headlight bar.

Bob

Re: Sick Horn
 

With her 6 Volt alternator, Minervas' horn blew GREAT, even at an IDLE!
Minerva sounded as if she were on 12 Volts, as the battery was ALWAYS FULLY CHARGED & the alternator was ready to INSTANTLY supply any needed LOAD!
SO, why do some FIGHT tooth & nail, against putting on a relatively CHEEP alternator????
Bill Ahoogazoom

Re: Sick Horn
 

Most members in our club use the 6 volt alternator. So much easier to live with.

Re: Sick Horn
 

To keep the neighbors happy, wrap the bell with a towel & stuff the end in the front while you're testing it.

Re: Sick Horn
 

check the main ground from battery, clean and wire brush area where it make contact...

Re: Sick Horn
 

could just need to be cleaned, or you need to oil it. The diaphragm wedge could be worn and need to be replaced. Several little things that can cause it to not work well.

Re: Sick Horn
 

Like all things the more you use it the better it gets..