21 Stud 37mod
 

Hey Guys

First I would like to say, what an awesome site with so much knowledge on these old engines. Way to to guys :)

I have got a 1937 221 Flathead that I bought from a guy that had salvaged it out of a quarrey in the mountains. I have no history on it but gave it a shot.
So far I have managed to figure out that it must be an UK built engine. It had a Lucas distributor and the amount of teeth on the ring gear and starter gear tells me it is not a US built engene. It has been bored 30 thou. over.
I have the block gutted and I'm getting ready to take it to the machine shop.
I have had a bit of problems finding main bearings and pistons for it.
The valve train seems to be easy to find. I will upgrade to the straight stem valves and adjustable lifters. The plan is to set it up with Sharp heads and a dual carb Sharp intake.
Not building a race engine. Just a mild street engine.
I have heard and read a lot on this Forum about the L100 cam. However I haven't been able to find out how I can get one!
So guys, where can I find main bearings, rod bearings, pistons and a L100 cam?

Any other pointers to aid me in the right direction is very much appreciated.

Eddie

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

L100 cam is NOT a good choice for such a small displacement engine.
There is some .030 pistons currently on eBay [no affiliation to me]. Bearings are around, be prepared to spend $$$$

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

Hi Brian

Thanks for your input. Can you recommend another cam that will give me a lumpy idle and is still streetworthy.
I'm afraid the 030 pistons wont cut it! The block is already bored 030over so I'm going to need a 060 or maybe more over.

Eddie

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

I like an isky 88 cam in a 21 stud.

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

Eddie,
Fast track to Van Pelt 513 724 9486 or
3rd Gen Auto....Michael Driskell.........844 327 5988


Get the block sonic checked for wall thickness before the boring bar goes to work. Core shift can cause big heart aches.
Hook up with KIWI Tony here he is the L 100 guy.

Charlie ny

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

Agree to check on VanPelt for piston set. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/e...prices-pg1.htm. Try to not to bore more if possible or as little as possible. Stock cam lope in mine sounds good enough to me. And I kept the mushrooms and split guides just because I could, and really don't expect I'll have to do them again anytime soon. 8^) Jack E/NJ

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

More goodys;
https://egge.com/product/kits.php?ac...engine=221+CID

If you can wait a while, Ebay will usually give you what you need, in NOS items. I got most of the stuff I needed for my 221 stud, '37 block but, I went back to FT pistons and aluminum '35 heads. Your engine should have domed pistons.

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

Welcome to FordBarn.The rod bearings seem to be the hardest to find or at least it was for me.The main bearings I got from C&G in Escondido,CA. Pistons and rings and rod bearings I found on EBAY.Chuck Kuntz who is a member here I heard has some of that stuff.Flathead Murre ,a member here,who is in Sweden has that stuff also.Good luck.

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

Since you are in Norway, I second the recommendation of "flatheadmurre" (that is his Ford Barn user name). He is in Sweden, and on top of that, a real good guy.

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

G’day Eddie & welcome. PM sent.
Cheers
Tony

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

Chuck Kurts in Penna. has lots of pistons and
bearings. G.M.

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

Nice to know, might be an option to find some parts in Sweden :D

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

So much good information, seems like it's going to be a matter of choosing where to buy.
I'm already more optimistic about this build :D
Any advice for upgrades is also very welcome.

Eddie

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

I put an 8BA crankand piston assy in a 37 block. This can be dome but is expensive. However you could bore it too 3 3/16 use 8BA pistons. angle mill the stock heads about .070" and use a isky 1007b cam check for piston and valve clearance. This Maked 2399ci and aprox 8:1 cr You'll need a good machinest to do this and sonic testing the bore is a good idea.
AS for the L-100 cam. I did use onr in the 37 I built, however the engine went into a Modeal A roadster that was vERY light.
god luck\Gramps

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

Wow Ron, you have tried it all. Did you ever dyno that build? Did you go for larger valves too? 8:1 in compression is good Would have been very interesting to see some numbers on that build especially torque :)
I’m going to use the stock crank and rods. Upgrade the valvetrain and make it a mild street engine. I’m not into racing but I love the way the Flathead sounds, hence the reason for wanting “the Smiley” cam :D
We are not blessed here in Scandinavia with easy access to parts unfortunately so I will reuse as much as I can. Valves and pistons were way beyond salvaging so that’s not even an option;)
She seems quite congested so some porting will be done too.
An honor to have you reply on my thread Sir
I’ll take my hat off to guys like you any time:)

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

Post #11.... his name is Chuck Kuntz...he’s a member here and very good to deal with....I’ve bought a lot from him and his replies are quick, realistic prices and good descriptions on his parts. Vanpelt Sales and Third Gen Auto are your other best choices for what you need.......Mark

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

Thanks guys

I dropped the block off at the machine shop yesterday. Waiting to have it hot tanked and Magna fluxed, Get a report of the condition and see how much, or little rather, we will have to bore it to clean the cylinders. It was already bored 0.030 over. Most of the valve seats looked refurbish able, might have to replace a couple of them.
Any of you guys, had any experience in putting in larger valves?

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

Flathead blocks really need to be pressure tested, mag doesn't always catch all of the crack issues.

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

Thanks
I will notify the machine shop :)

Re: 21 Stud 37mod
 

Nothing on the blocks is more irritating (and expensive) than putting a lot of effort into machine work and ending up with a hidden crack!