Wheel stud replacement SOLVED: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

OK, I would like to replace the drums on my '42-'48 hubs. With my current ones, one has a odd "hump" when I do run out test (shame for it's at .010" now) and the other is at .040" and needs to be turned.

I happen to have NOS Ford drums that I'd like to replace the fronts with and NORS stock for the rears.

The question is: Does anyone have the Dorman part # for the correct stud to replace the OEM ones once I cut them out?

Would the front and rear studs be different lengths?

I believe I'll need to ream the hole in the hole slightly since the replacements will be knurled.

I searched for about an hour last night and keep getting confirmed Dorman part numbers for wheel studs for the '40 style (drum OUTSIDE of hub) set ups.

Thanks,

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

Hey Tim....Considerin' that I really don't know squat about notta', let me tell ya what I've heard. Unfortunately, I've heard a bunch about this set-up. First of all, I AM fairly sure that Ford never sold drums ONLY across the counter for Fords with the swaged wheel studs, just because they were so difficult to R&R "properly". Hence, Ford always sold ya a drum/hub ASSEMBLY at the Ford House which was already glued together (swaged). Secondly, there's another story noting that there never was a replacement drum for the hubs with flange on the outside, like the ones in your picture. And third, I've heard it adamantly-stated for years now that there is NO Dorman or Dorman-like replacement for the stock Ford swaged studs, diameter-wise. I guess it has something to do with that damned ol' swage again, somehow. I've been lead to believe that to replace the studs, one must find an appropriately-oversized (diameter) stud of the correct length that can be pressed-in after reaming the holes to a proper press-fit. And even at that, they will act like later model drums simply slipping over the wheel studs, being held securely by the wheel and lug nuts. Curiously, where did ya come-up with those two bare drums? DD

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

Thanks, DD. Yes, once the old studs are out, I didn't plan to swedge in new ones so they'd have serrated shoulders sitting inside a slightly enlarged reamed hole in the hub.

I got them from our own Fred (Barnfind08) @ Southside Obsolete. Doesn't mean much, but one of them still has the remnants of an old red ink Ford hang tag wired to it.

Rears are old, good replacements, but aren't ribbed like the Ford ones. Since it's a fenderless car, I'd like those upfront.

There is a good machine shop about an hour away that knew exactly what I was trying to do. I may take the whole mess to him and let him figure this out.

I'd like to do it once.

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

Dick Spadaro supplied me with wheel studs (15 yrs ago). Don't remember where he got them. They replaced the swagged ones.

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

Cut the swedge out with a 5/8" hole saw*, knock the studs out and separate the hub and drum, rotate the bolt pattern half way between the old stud holes, drill and tap for 1/2-20, and use gr8 tap bolts to both retain the drums and act as studs. Good idea to give the new assy a light turn to be sure.

Same way we do Buick alum drums on the outside flange hubs.

* Could as an alternative, cut the head of the stud off and tap them out from the inside; either way works.

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

Thanks, Rich. Yes, for sure will get them a "truing up" turn. Rather have a drum at .010" v. .060"

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

I remember getting just drums and studs back in the 60's from Job Lot down on Long Island.
Paul in CT

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

Interesting. James from Joblot has his own business now. I should call him.

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

James treated me very well last fall ! ! About a 1 1/2 hour ride.

Paul in CT

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

Find someone that knows how to do it and they probably have the studs.

Charlie Stephens

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

I took some time to take measurements. I'm going to match it up the the Dorman site. I'll report back.

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

Be careful removing the hub from the old drum, I drilled mine out and there was a left over bit of metal on the outer edge where the swedge rolled the shoulder against the drum , I cracked an old drum and warped a hub flange trying to hammer and press the old studs from a hub.

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

Here are 6 new studs I found in my stash. Don't know when, why or where I bought them. So I guess I will not need them. Free for the postage

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

I just sent you message. I'd gladly take you up on that offer. Thank you!

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

Hey Tim......Unless I'm wrong, and that is certainly a possibility, I can think of only two possible ways that those will do you any good. You can press them in and RE-SWAGE, or press them in and weld the heads on back side. Of course, the swaging process is what kept the originals from turning while removing or replacing lug nuts. But, I know you knew that! DD

Re: Wheel stud replacement help: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

Hey DD,

Yeah, I think I found a guy that can re-swage them. I'll report back if that's the case.

Tim

Re: Wheel stud replacement SOLVED: '42-'48 hubs & drums
 

Ok, update... My guy could not re-swage them. Drove 2 hours round trip to only do the job myself.

In the end, it actually work out really well. I was getting psyched out by thinking I needed them to be re-swaged. It's actually not needed. The drum in hub centric, meaning the hub centers the drum and NOT the studs.

I ever so slightly reamed the holes in the drums and '42-'48 style hub to prevent any cracking while pulling the new, serrated studs through the back side.

I used Wagner part # BD61213. These cross over to Dorman 610-085. A tad longer than stock, but would be fine with a hub cap. I may trim them since I'm not running a hub cap, but I'll live it for a while.

I did install new races with new, US-made bearings and the hub assembly spins perfectly.

I hope this helps some of you out there in this position.

Side note, cutting out the old swage is no big deal either. 5/8" hole saw and slide the bit down and over the stud. You'll see the old swage spin out once its cut away.