Pics for your review/ comment.
 

If pics come thru.....
Evaluation/observation.

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

OK, your question about this is what?

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

I'll make a guess - rear main journal that has been sitting for a while?


JayJay

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

Opps. Not good. Can't be used as is. Re grind if it will clean up or new crank. Bearing is still OK. If fitting a new crank you can size bearings using Timesaver. Say the old crank is 0.010 under. Fit a standard crank and fit bearings with shims and timesaver. If you re grind the crank you will need to pour and bore new bearings. Too bad, it was a good crank before sitting with moisture in the bearing.

Did you say that this is the engine with the sludge? The oil could have been acidic.

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

Hardtimes,

oh that is bad, my condolences.
box it all up and leave it on the curb for me to pick up, I'll save you the hassle of trying to get rid of it.

PS. keep the sludge, it is probably toxic anyway.

John

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

I am not very happy with the way the oil groves are cut in the bearing. it looks like you will have a big oil leak out the rear main.

I do not think I have seen a crank pitted that bad from just sitting.

JMO

Chris W.

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

I would polish it up and run it. The crank float on a layer of oil, not right on the bearing and I see more places to hold oil. I might babbitt up the ends so the oil doesn't just flow out.

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

I agree, the oil will fill and create surface to float on.
This kinda confirms ....that this engine sat for a long time idle.
With the acidic crud that stayed on the crank.... it looks like same pattern as cut into bearing.
It a has a very smooth surface ( the crank).

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

Re-assemble, fill the crankcase with 20-50 weight oil and drive.

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

Hey Chris,
I have seen worse from sitting in bad conditions, but never like this... in that... this engine shows some anomalies. It was worked by someone who knew something about reworking an engine. He installled single lock lifters , aluminum pistons , etc. He stamped his crank work. New macerated cam gear.

At some time after this guy finished working it, this engine was put back to work. It worked on/off , so on without ever being allowed to warm up. At some point, it was stored and never given maintenance or care.
Its condition now indicates that it was stored dirty/wet... for years !!

Couple you guys say you feel...that , by look of bearing... that it will cause oil leak. Tell what you see and what you mean...details !

I had to clear the crud from this cap. The drain tube is clear. Oil should drain freely.
So how do you see the leak developing ?

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

That is my thinking !
I use 20/50 detergent, the big trunks use... to prevent sludge. WITH 180 thermostat / oil filter system. Like you, I’m thinking that and some other parts replaced, will make it run well.
Hey, if for some reason I do not like what I have, another crank freshening can happen.
I have several other things with banger interest. This one will get done.
Amazing how life is. I just sold a drilled STANDARD C crank. With stmt... Ill probably regret this , eh !!

I just spoke to an old racer friend !! He always has good STUFF about his race stuff.
No time to get froggy, eh.

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

I have a counterbalanced B crank that looks just like that. If I ever rebuild that engine, I intend taking the journals down to the next size and running inserts. Those guys above who said that the journal doesn't touch the babbit are correct and those marks will do no harm. Just look at the roughly cut grooves in the cam shaft journals - and they were done by Ford!

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

Hey John,
Let me think on that a moment.... ahhh NO !
This BLOCK’S condition is way better than I expected ! It’s like a nos Diamond B

Lots potential. Deck looks to be thicker than most Bs I’ve seen. My new Russian B
Equals this one. Lots of meat for a 4”.
It has later valves, but no insert seats. Taking the valves out soon to touch up seats in blk. It needs aluminum cam gear, but old type gear seems to be new.
Not for racing, so should run.
What is the worst cam drive dist drive GEAR you’ve seen ??
The teeth on this gear.... would cut you like a knife ! I’ll replace that.
Thanks for your offer ...haha !

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

ANEN !
Im with your input/ evaluation !
Its a B cam, and could use one of Jim B cam jobs.
Maybe already cam cut. Ill run it this cam as is.

You know, talking REAR oil leaks... that is very first concern. Guess what was missing when I separated block from clutch cover ... yup no gasket. Leaking like a sieve !! Maybe that is why this engine was shelved ?

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

INSERTS are only way to go.... when putting as much money as we do.. into these bangers I

This is first babbitted block I’ve had in years !

This one might end up with inserts.

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Yup.... for years !

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

I had an engine that was worse. It was a Model T engine that had sat in a salt house for years. For those that don't know, that is where meat is salted and might as well be under the ocean as far as the engine was concerned. The engine was frozen up solid. If I still had my boat and needed a mooring anchor, that would have been its fate. It went to the scrap yard.

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

those oil grooves curving around the front thrust surface are factory, they are cast in when the bearing was poured, I have both finished and unfinished NOS caps showing that detail

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

Hey Kurt ,
THANKS for that picture and for your input !
This is first stock Babbitt Ive messes with in many years.

Can you tell me what, if any, modern device (neoprene/alum/otherwise) is available for oil control...in this situation ?

I’m aware of removing metal slinger from crank , and using Burtz seal, Chev seal, etc.
However, not doing that until I redo entire engine.

Re: Pics for your review/ comment.
 

Consider this: If you pulled the pan, and refilled it with oil you might have ran that engine for 500 to 5,000 miles and never given it a thought.