Re: 1929 Roadster Cowl Tank Removal 3 Attachment(s)
These photos show how the dash arm is riveted to the Windshield post and how it is welded to the rail brackets just to the left of the left hand bolt hole eye. It also is apparent that the brackets also are hard fastened to the windshield post /fire wall post below the right hand lower bolt eye . Has anyone removed a tank with out cutting the dash arm out ? This may have been welded this way at the Factory and probably was as there is no other apparent way to connect the 3 different parts named . It really appears that this tank has never been off the car from jts original assembly
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Re: 1929 Roadster Cowl Tank Removal 3 Attachment(s)
Here are a few more shots .. I gently tapped my screw driver into the welting of the seam between dash arm and cowl tank and squirted in PB Blaster penetrant . I'm hoping this same treatment will free up the tank near the dash rail brackets
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Re: 1929 Roadster Cowl Tank Removal Quote:
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Re: 1929 Roadster Cowl Tank Removal Jeremy,
The unpainted part in your photos (which you are calling the dash rail, post and brackets) DO NOT come out. You do need to make sure that you have removed all the nuts and bolts that hold the tank to that assembly. You should be able to eventually pry the gas tank out. Double check that you got all the bolts. I always stick a rag in the area at the bottom of the cowl so when I drop a bolt, nut or washer, it does not disappear. There are two bolts (one on each side) that are pretty much hidden. The disadvantage of removing the gas tank only and not the lower cowl section too, is that the new cowl webbing will not be a continuous piece and might not show well. If you decide to remove the lower cowl too, there is a couple of rivets that will need to be removed at the bottom where it joins the body. You also might need to loosen and lift up on the body to pull the lower cowl out. It is a very tight fit to get it by the motor, too. My recommendation would have been to tried the dirty leg cleaning method first. If you have not damaged the existing cowl webbing, you might want to reconsider removing the tank. |
Re: 1929 Roadster Cowl Tank Removal The new webbing might be thicker that the original webbing, because it is always quite a challenge to pull the webbing all the way in place.
FYI: If you are not removing the lower cowl, be sure to compare the new webbing to the old webbing to determine if the restorer had use cowl webbing or fender webbing. If he used fender webbing you will have to match it even though it is not correct. |
Re: 1929 Roadster Cowl Tank Removal This is how it comes out. Never taken one out, but I've put one in and it is all bolted:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsI1jOm24wk |
Re: 1929 Roadster Cowl Tank Removal Quote:
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Re: 1929 Roadster Cowl Tank Removal George ..Yes 10 of them 5 per side.
Updraught....Thanks This is what I was hoping to hear..The dash arm is clearly visible. Forever4.... How so? By being cautious? Neil...Thanks for the tip on the webbing..As I said before...this car was never restored in the true sense of the word.. This tank has never been off the car. I am calling the dash arm the dash arm because that is how it is listed for sale in Snyders Model A parts catalog. It is listed separate from the Dash Rail brackets and this is why I decided to ask you experts if I could remove the tank without removing the dash arm...If you read my posts carefully you would have read that I said it appears that it will come out without removing the dash arm.. As I am a self admitted novice on tank removal i am asking advice . This doesn't mean ive never worked on model A's. I opted to do it this way because it is a better fix and less expensive . Thank you for all your input ..I welcome anything your have to say..even if it is derogatory.... As it stands I have.... the answer to my question and when its all back together Ill post a photo. I see that Mike's, Mac and Snyder all offer cowl webbing . I will take your advice on measuring the existing original welting. Thanks again to all who have posted |
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