Water pump core differences
 

I'm cleaning a couple old water pumps to use as cores when I order a new pump.

The ends of the castings are different. See Picture.

I know it looks like a washer/spacer on the one pump, but it isn't willing to come off easily.

Is it part of the casting, or should I just get a little more aggressive?

Thanks,

Randy


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Re: Water pump core differences
 

Well, I answered my own question.

Tried heating the casting then tapping the bushing towards the center of the pump but it wouldn't budge, even though there was what looked like a seam around the ID of the bushing.

So, I turned it around, heated it again and drove the bush towards the rear/impeller side of the pump.

A couple good whacks and it started to move.

So the spacer/washer is part of the bushing....

Re: Water pump core differences
 

YUP that's the way to do it.

Re: Water pump core differences
 

Your next challenge will be in finding a replacement shaft of the proper diameter.

There USED to be oem shafts - these were 0.625 diameter. One is shown at Vince Falter's MOST EXCELLENT site.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/originalwpshaft.htm

And Vince goes on about the reproduction shafts

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/waterpumpshafts.htm

In general, any stainless steel shaft you buy from a vendor is liable to be undersize. It seems that the primary start point for making a shaft in the repop industry is to start with the commercially available stainless rod stock - which MAY be as much as 0.625, but more likely starts at 0.624 or below. Note on Vince's first reference above in making carbon steel shafts, the factory note starts with an oversize shaft and grinds it to the size.

Back when I was first into water pumps there used to be non-stainless shafts available. THESE were generally closest to the original sizing as they were sourced from rod stock used for roller slides/positioners - and these HAVE to be the correct decimal since the accuracy of mechanism which they construct depends on it.

But alas, everyone seems to be jumping on the stainless bandwagon thinking stainless is somehow better because it doesn't rust. And today the carbon steel OEM style shafting is non-obtainium.

Another solution can be found in using a Torrington sleeve on the bearing end of the stainless shaft. Even this may require "knurling" of the pump shaft to allow the very precisely made Torrington sleeve to become a "drive-fit" in place on the undersize stainless rod. The Torrington bearing and sleeve create a superior front bearing - although the original bearing and shaft worked fine if the shaft sizing is correct. But the Torrington sleeve fix does not address additional slop in the gland end of the pump.

I don't have the Torrington numbers for sleeve and bearing on hand - but use search function with "water pump torrington bearing" and you'll find the bearing component reference.

Joe K

Re: Water pump core differences
 

This may be similar to the Torrington, just based on your description.

https://modelastore.com/cooling-syst...roduct_id=3836

Maybe the old shaft can be re-used? I'll look it over and see what I find.

Here is a link to a discussion about the Torrington.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5891

Re: Water pump core differences
 

The old steel shafts were MUCH harder than the stainless crap we get these days. I understand why the vendors sell the stainless ones - people like the look of a clean shaft and are not concerned about how long it will last. I drive my cars so I need something more durable. To get this with a stainless shaft, I figured I should have nothing rubbing on it like the bearing bush or gland packing. I put a sealed ball bearing front and back and a ceramic seal. I can't see why such a pump won't outlast me and the next owner.