Pressure test plate
 

Was wondering the thickness require for a aluminum pressure testing plate., 24 stud block. Thanks, Rick

Re: Pressure test plate
 

You could probably get away with 1/4". Use a soft gasket. I use theatrical dance floor material called Marley. I used 1/4" steel for the plate.

Karl

Re: Pressure test plate
 

Thanks Karl Wolf for info.

Re: Pressure test plate
 

I'd make it out of thicker material . . . unless material cost is your big issue. In the end, the coast of the material is small (in my mind) as compared to the time/work put into the end result. I'd probably go with 3/4" myself - but Hey, that is me.

Also, you should take a hole saw and cutout the area for the bore - so you can "see what is going on". If you have time, cut out two 1.5" holes in the valve area. Or, better yet find somebody with a nice big laser or waterjet cutter and cut the center areas out to match a stock head gasket profile.

Re: Pressure test plate
 

If you make it thick enough it can serve as a multi-purpose tool??

We made ours to serve as a pressure-plate tester, a block-plate for finish honing the blocks, and a deck-pinning fixture to pin the heads and gaskets to the blocks (photo below)!

We made it 1.500" thick to be safe.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. When working on any Flatheads it is a "must-have" tool for sure!

Re: Pressure test plate
 

I believe we finally have a clear-cut, "NO-B/S", definitively-executed, 'manly' winner here! I've often thought that using 1/4" plate for a "home-brew" version was going kind of light. Even though there's not much pressure required to adequately perform the test, it's still pretty easy to deform 1/4" steel plate. If I were so inclined as to make a test plate this late in the game (which I ain't), I'd have to go with 1/2" steel. Pretty hard to distort 1/2" by merely pulling-down with bolts. Plus, 1/2" will take a tapped/threaded hole or two better than a piece of 1/4" will. But, what do I know? NICE frikken' plate, Gary! DD


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...7&d=1592751800

Re: Pressure test plate
 

To me, it makes little sense to go through the task of opening the bore, without opening the entire valve and combustion area. Doing so makes a good case for having it at least 1/2" thick steel.

Re: Pressure test plate
 

I agree.
if you don't expose the valve seats, how do you check to see if the ports/seats are leaking?

Re: Pressure test plate
 

Thanks guys,I appreciate all the Info and the time to respond

Re: Pressure test plate
 

I just realized you asked about ALUMINUM. There's absolutely NO WAY I'd consider 1/4" ALUMINUM. 1/2" MIGHT be OK in aluminum. I'd use steel! That aluminum plate isn't cheap, either. DD

Re: Pressure test plate
 

I’m with #’s 7&8. If the block turns out to be nothing but a bubble machine.....it’d be nice to see where the bubbles are coming from......Mark

Re: Pressure test plate
 

I made some aluminum plates for my 8BA's. The head plates were fine, but the 1/4" thick plates I made for rhe water pump outlets leaked badly. I made replacements from 1/4" steel and they worked fine.

Re: Pressure test plate
 

Thanks again guys, Happy Fathers Day to all you Fathers.

Re: Pressure test plate
 

Just got a set from Speedway. Offy brand 3/8 steel plate with rubber on one side. Also two water pump block off plates with all bolts and pressure regulators. I thought $289.00 is cheap.

Re: Pressure test plate
 

I used an old cylinder heads and some hole saws.. Mad it about 40 y3qrs qgo. Can't use it any more because I modified it for another project