Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

I'm currently building my version of show car roadster. Hopped up 4 Cylinder, original driveline, fancy paint that I keep chipping AND Hydraulic brakes. Yes yes. I know, most say the original brakes will suffice. yes I agree,on a stock car they are just fine. But It's fitted with bigger tires,and a bit more power and I just wanted a little more assurance.

I was convinced to order Pete and Jakes dual reservoir Hydraulic Master cylinder kit . Which I did and it looks nice.

My blunder is-it's a weld on kit... and I didn't weld it on. And the the frame is now painted. The Kit is brand new, however it has some rust from sitting on self since early in the year.

I've seen the battery box Master kits. Is this my only option? I like the dual cylinder vs the single.

I can probably modify it to make it bolt on. Maybe somebody else has some ideas.

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

Weld it and re-paint the damaged area.

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

You’ll spend more time and energy, fiddle farting around, trying to Jerry rig it, then if you just did it the right way.

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

.
As J Franklin, Chuck and McMimmcs say do it right and Weld it on.

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

I think the answer to your question is, what are your capabilities? Mike apparently beat me to the post (-faster typer! :D) but both of our strategies appear to be the same.

For me personally, since I have a CNC Plasma, I would cut a nice looking plate to match the frame where the bracket was to be welded. I would plan on cutting 4-6 ⅜" holes in the plate, and then use a transfer punch to mark the holes in the frame where the hole s will be drilled. If the new plate is 0.250" thick, mark and grind the areas on the bracket where you would have welded it to the plate so the alignment for linkages will remain correct. Bolt the entire bracket onto the frame with Grade 8 bolts and use nuts with Loctite. It will be there until the Master comes back.

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

My approach to these vehicles is damage nothing, I like everything to be reverse-able. I rather like the idea of creating brackets to weld to that can bolt on. I was leaning that way anyway. Paint is expensive, much more so than welding filler and a grinding disc. I was just wondering if anybody knew of a less destructive way to mount a master, or if they had modified a bolt in master cyl/battery box to accept a dual reservoir.

I haven't really made my decision yet. When I get to to see the car this weekend I will try to come up with a plan.

I do appreciate the pro's chiming in. There are plenty of automotive things I do not have confidence in,but my fabrication work is not one of them. And If I some how screw up the brackets, at least I didn't screw up the frame...yet.

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

If you're hesitant to weld, the batt box would be your best option, a small p;ate could be bolted to the box to change M/Cyl bolt mounting pattern.
Paul in CT

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

I like the way your thinking about not doing damage by welding to the frame and preserving the old ford for the next caretaker. I made my own K-member so I can bolt it to the frame and center crossmember. I looked for a easy button and purchasing one but only found the one outfit. I had a 31 Tudor that had that setup already and wasn’t happy with its strength in some points and modified it. I will look for some pictures of my modifications . I will add I am a toolmaker with a machine shop so making stuff is what I do. If we can help please ask..

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

PM sent

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

Fab plates, drill and attach with fasteners if the goal is to preserve the paint.Welding brake components to 5/32 Ford frame rail is doable but can be dicey given your admitted skills.Hopped up model a with rod brakes? yep.. locks them up and skids,mechanical brakes is part of the feel,"all steel from the pedal to the wheel"

https://i.imgur.com/F6DHaV1.jpg

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

I meant to say that I AM very capable in fabrication,even though I no longer have ready access to machining equipment. I have plenty of tools to get this done with a nice fit and finish.

I appreciate everyone's support.

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

Contact Cling' manufacturing, [email protected]. They make V8 to A adapters, and brake kits so may be of help?

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

Here is what you need: Dual Master Cylinder, bolt in battery box, etc.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1928-1931-f...YAAOSwAtlcp6eN

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

Carl is right.
I have had one of these for 12 years. Bolts right in and you never have to adjust it or think about it.

John

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

The one on Ebay from Dave is excellent, very heavy duty.

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

My 30 Coupe had been juiced years ago with everything from a 48. It worked but was crude... I built a battery box with a mount for a Wilwood dual master cylinder with remote reservoirs. I used a stock brake pedal with a bell crank to actuate the master cylinder. Residual pressure valves are required for the frame type mounting of the master cylinder.
I was able to do everything without drilling any holes or altering it in anymore than the previous change.

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

Does this ebay kit use the original service brake cross over shaft?

How does this connect to the pedal?

Re: Hydraulic Brake Blunder
 

You do not use the crass shaft. The pedal is hooked to a bell crank at the side of the box by a clevis rod. The bell crank actuates the master cylinder mounted on the box.

John