What's your "Go To" for a hard head? 3 Attachment(s)
So what is your "Go To" method for removing a "hard head"? Stud motor (not bolts) in particular......and do you find the right harder to remove than the left? Mine is "loose" in the sense of "off the deck" but will not budge beyond that. AND the more I force the back of the head the "more" the front comes off!!! It's so close BUT yet so far away.
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Re: What's your "Go To" for a hard head? 33-34 Aluminum heads can be real stinkers about this . Yours is moving so tap it down and spray the studs with PB or whatever snake oil you prefer . Probably some buildup in the holes in the head binding on the threads .
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Re: What's your "Go To" for a hard head? So much for the easy fix . Maybe a couple shims in the center and rock it front-back ? Finesse time ?
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Re: What's your "Go To" for a hard head? I have a couple "T" handles I can screw into the sparkplug holes which can give extra pulling power. Usually if I can get some teeter-totter action on the head it will come off.
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Re: What's your "Go To" for a hard head? I cheated a notch more...one slidehammer in each outer sparkplug hole.
Slidehammers lets you both pull and push the head back down....and some rustpenetrant of choice. |
Re: What's your "Go To" for a hard head? 1 Attachment(s)
I made this lifter from old spark plugs. Helps to wiggle them but be gentle so you don't damage the threads.
Same as JWL's |
Re: What's your "Go To" for a hard head? Since you can pull it up a small amount try using wood pieces under the ends ,sides ,top and bottom of the heads , pry up alternately as in a back and forth rocking motion, wood will not damage the metal and act as leverage , a rubber mallet and with the snake oil on the studs as you are already using. and a little patience.
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Re: What's your "Go To" for a hard head? I have used hooks welded to the base of a spark plug and used a slide hammer on the hooks..
The local flathead builder here uses air wedges (never tried it myself) https://www.grainger.com/product/453...g!572999310232! |
Re: What's your "Go To" for a hard head? There is NO "loose" what so ever in this head.....NONE......what "progress" you see pictured has come with "Extreme" Effort over two days....the front half "somewhat" easier than the back. AND when I say "Extreme" I am surprised as some point I haven't cracked the head. I am afraid, at this point....any negative travel (back down) will result in the same amount of effort required to get "Back" to where I am at now. I have once tried getting the head "as level" as I could BUT "any" effort to move it at that point was futile!!! What is puzzling to me is (and can be seen in my pictures) IS there in NO force applied on the front half of the head......all movement "there" has been achieved AS I have put force on and moved the back of the head??? The slide hammer suggestions are in my thoughts at this point but still open to ANY other ideas.
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Re: What's your "Go To" for a hard head? 2 Attachment(s)
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Haha. Hiding in plain sight |
Re: What's your "Go To" for a hard head? The thing is not to put a crazy amount of force on it cause whatever is binding between studs and heads will come to a point and stopp...no matter the amount of force.
Wiggle them and the crud stuck in there will come out one tiny piece each cycle...not the best meditation but it works. |
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Re: What's your "Go To" for a hard head? Hmmm. If you have access to a torch, heat the head side around the stud holes to see if they'll enlarge enough to get past the studs.
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Re: What's your "Go To" for a hard head? I have a special very THIN hole saw like tool that just fits over the stud that goes down and cuts the aluminum oxidation that is causing the problem. This tool is made to be used by hand I think. I have never had to use it but understand how it works. The metal is about the thickness of a razor blade. Later today I will post a picture of it in my MISC album.
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Re: What's your "Go To" for a hard head? True, but it might work, the issue is the same. Pictures posted in MISC album. You would certainly have to go slow.
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