Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

I'm working on my A project and I picked up a can of Metal To Metal to fill in some of the rust pebbling on the A frame. My attention was drawn to what I assume to be the front fender brace holes. They're UGLY! I don't want to drag out the welder and probably make a mess of things but do you think if I countersink the holes and fill them with the filler I'd be OK?
Thanks!!

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

I think that stuff would fall out after a while if it isn't backed up with something solid. Welding the holes shut if you don't want them seems like a better idea to me. That won't ever fall out!

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

If it's only a cosmetic thing, I've cleaned the metal up and used caulking to hide the uglies. Jack E/NJ

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

Nope... I think it'll fall out. It's used for filling pits, not open "wounds".

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

If you have it apart, spend the time and repair it correctly if you can. Better to do it now than regret not doing it later on. There is enough stuff that happens that is unexpected, putting it back together knowing it might be a problem down the road doesn't make sense in my book.

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

if its an easy place to get a sanding tool in there, i fill pits with epoxy primer dabbed on with an artist brush. it does not sand well, plugs up paper, but does not shrink or fall off if prepped

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

Put a bolt in the hole.
Bruce

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

Any chance of posting a photo or two showing area of concern?

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

I occasionally use "all metal" for pits after they have been sand blasted. It is quite hard to sand compared to polyester filler. It seems to be resin with powdered metal that needs to be catalyzed like other fillers. Like Kube said, don't try to fill a hole with it.

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

I'm with you... "do it once, do it correctly".
A guy can never be sorry later on with this method.

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

I have used round head rivets in some cases. Welding up a hole with the mig is simple, if you can back it up with some copper plate, weld won't stick to the copper, and it usually results in half way decent finish on the back side that can either be cleaned up with die grinder and Roloc disc, or filler.

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

Yep hold a piece of copper, brass or even 1/4" thick alum on one side
of the hole and weld the hole shut, then remove your backer plate.





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Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

So, I've been working on this project in the back yard and my welder's in the garage. If I want to weld, I have to schlep the frame around front to the driveway. What if I make a dolly? Whipped up a design using old bed frame iron and some wheels left over from my Corvette refurbishment a bunch of years back. The dolly needed a bit of welding so now I can get the frame out to the welder and I buzzed them holes up solid. Now, I'm starting to fill in the rust pock marks with the Metal to Metal.

An unexpected bonus is that I can use a horse under the back of the frame to have it at a nice height to work on or not use the horse and have either end up nice and high to work on the bottom side. (Painting and stuff or welding holes up front)

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

I made me a long extension cord for my welder to reach outside but I also have a 110 mig for stuff like that.

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

I have a 50' cord that I put the big 220V plugs and receptacles on but it doesn't quite get to where I need it to be.

Re: Plugging holes with "Metal To Metal?"
 

I hate to be Captain Obvious but why can't you carry the frame to where the end of your 50' cord is? If it is too awkward for you have a friend help. Model A frames are not that heavy.
Oh, I missed a post and see you moved the frame. Sorry.