ARP Head Studs
 

Months/years(?) ago I remember someone having kits of ARP cylinder head studs for the Model A engine. The broached allen key end would be nice in this application.

If this sounds familiar, any sourcing would be appreciated.

Thanks ins advance.
Peace, Phred

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

Phred,

to the best of my knowledge, ARP does not sell a kit for the studs on Model "A or B".
someone like Synders might.

now, with experience in ARP fasteners, I can suggest this;
do some measuring and determine your requirements for length(s)
search web sites such as summit racing or jegs to find the individual pcs.
if you order directly from ARP and do not have a resellers account, you are paying list price.

PS, stay with 55ft/lbs torque, any more just distorts the deck and head no matter what stud/bolt is used.

J

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

I got mine from ARP along with stainless acorn nuts and washers

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

Thanks guys.

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

Reds Headers has the kit, nice tube headers and some other 4cylinder stuff. Victor is a nice guy to deal with. 760-343-2590.

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

Amen to what Nosetime said!

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

Holy smokes, didn't know Red's had the kits

John

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

John,smokes have no tensile strength, stay with the ARP.

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

Funny Jim, I thought smokes are grade 2............


J

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

It's too bad that unified hardware in this country has become harder to get. There was a time when you could go to any auto parts store and purchase bolts & studs in most common lengths, grades, and even oversizes of shank & thread. I can still get some for the aircraft engines but even those are getting scarce unless the engine is still in wide use.

Studs are set in to a specific torque before bottoming out in the aircraft engines. If they bottom out they will become loose in the bore so oversizes were available to get them to set correctly. I don't think Ford ever did this. I always made my thread clean out tools from old bolt to keep from making the threaded bores too large for new studs or bolts. Ford made some damn good hardware back in the day.

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

John, I once replaced some 1" bolts on a big-rigs rear suspension. The bolts in the stockroom were grade 2. I was using a 1" drive socket set, and never even felt them get tight! They just stripped the threads right off!

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

rotorwrench Statement from above: "I always made my thread clean out tools from old bolt to keep from making the threaded bores too large for new studs or bolts." Is there anything special in this process and if so any pictures/drawing? Thanks!

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

I just cut flutes in the bolts used for clean out a lot like a tap is set up using a carbide cutting wheel. The OEM hardware has the correct thread pitch grade for the threaded hole so it has no tendency to cut at the threads. Thread taps are sometimes a larger fit grade than they should be and they will cut the threads deeper. It's just to clean the crap out. The rest will blow out with compressed air. This insures the thread pitches will remain as tight as possible. It's important for studs to be relatively tight. Loctite might work but it depends on a lot of factors on how well it works.

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

I did the same thread tool from original stud as Rotorwrench. Very important tip there!

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

Thanks rotorwrench!!

Re: ARP Head Studs
 

I do as rotorwrench does, on camshaft nuts, to clean the cam threads. As accurate as most things are machined, cams are different. All threads are not the same, only close. Same with the 2 dowels, most are 5/16", .312" but I've found many that are only .310". Some holes get worn, probably from being a bit loose. For these, I make oversize dowels, both in diameter and length.