crack
 

I have an 8Ba I just took apart and I found a crack that runs from the edge of the ex valve to the cylinder wall it is about 3/4 of an inch down the wall. This block has an over bore of .125 and I have a mercury crank . In the past I would junk the block . There are some things I won't do at this time .
Never junk a flathead
never junk a pick up
Never give up on a Christan

Re: crack
 

Amen.

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You may be able to sleeve the cylinder and then pin the rest of the crack.

Let us know what you do to save the block.

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I'm with you.. I have a 59a relieved that has a few pan rail cracks from freezing... I have some cast iron welding rod I'm going to test out on it!

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That crack is fixable, I had one in the same place and the machine shop said it was repairable but was a risky repair and that I might spend a few hundred bucks for something that wouldn't pass a pressure test.

JB

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I have fixed those cracks with these http://www.locknstitch.com/engines-c...-industry.html

If the crack doesn't extend below the travel of the piston rings I'd be careful with a sleeve as it might try to spread the crack open again.

The Lock n Stitch pins are amazing and actually pull the cracked area back together again.

Best bet might be to take good pictures of the affected area and call their tech support. It works but you have to do a good job and follow their instructions to a tee.

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Thanks to all of you for the invaluable advice . I am a little set back . I haven't given up on the motor . I just am going to set it aside for a time . Thank you all again . Semper fi Chaplain Mike

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Mike said "I'd be careful with a sleeve as it might try to spread the crack open again. "

I'll show how little I know and ask. Can you sleeve it and then pin it? Would the crack down the cylinder wall be a problem if the pins follow the crack right up to the sleeve? Seems like the water would be contained to the depth of the pin.

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I've had them stitched and no sleeve, ran right on the stitches
.

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Like this.
This also has a new valve seat.

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I have had the best results using a stainless rod. I v the crack out with a grinding wheel and preheat 400*with a rose bud weld from bottom to top with the ends of the cracks drilled out to stop further cracking. I hope this helps. It works for me.

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Hey Mike,
There is THE 'locknstitch' business up in Turlock, Ca. This is the company who developed their patented process for fixing problems like yours. Don't know where you are, but you may be in that area, eh ?
BTW, they also sell patented supplies to do that work. You look them up and read about their business. It's impressive that they can save and help save our old iron :). Good luck.

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If you electric weld it use a 309 rod which is used for welding stainless steel to mild steel but their are a lot of cast rods stainless steel based.

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Thanks again guys I live in southern Ohio near Cincinnati .

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Welding is a poor decision. Read the second paragraph rite from lock and stitch. I have been taught a couple of lessons in cast iron welding :( Have been tig welding for 30+ years.The great danger is the parent material after the weld becomes glass hard and presents a very difficult item to machine.

http://www.locknstitch.com/cast-iron-welding.html

R

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There is a guy in Millbury Ma and all he does is stitch cast iron. He makes his own pins and locks. I've seen him patch the side of some very expensive engines. I personally would sleeve it, wary of what caused the crack in the first place, but as Ron says it will seal the crack like brand new.

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Frank Casey in Millbury,Mass.Did a Rickenbacker engine for me years back.It took almost 2 ft of stitching to repair. Frank is an artist at cast iron crack repair.

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As many noted, use the lock n' stitch method and have a hard valve seal put in, along with a sleeve to the bore. You can't just stitch it and not sleeve the bore.

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Another good repair pin as well.

http://www.irontite.com/store/index....97b431c7ecfaf1

R

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Several ways of doing it and depending on if it´s in the middle with surrounding material or at the edge.
Welding an ear or the edge of a bellhousing is fine as long as the material can expand/contract.
Pinning in the middle is fine with tapered pins only.
First you have to analyse what forces will be at work then select way of repair.
There even used to be sleeves for the valvepockets for the flatheads.