B Carb Questions
 

I found some good B- Carb info on here, but still have some questions. The carb is soaking in Berrymen Chem Dip right now.

* if I have the float (original rectangular float) paralell with the upper section, is the float too high, too low, or just about right?

* I have a tube with the wire in it used to test the fuel level in the bowl. What is the (actual) fuel level in the bowl supposed to be from the top edge?

* That vent hole that goes to the well around the power jet tube, is there a secret to getting that crud out of there, without damaging the tube, or is it just a patience thing? The power jet tube looks perfect, so I do not want to mess with trying to pull it out, and get it back in there.

* My air fuel SCREW on my B Carb when I took it off was 3/4 open (off the full closed seat). Instructions I found on here say start at 1 and 1/2 turns off the seat. That seems like quite a difference. Anyone have any thoughts? I assume screw it back and forth till it idles the best over a period of a couple of minutes after at operating temp?

* This carb does not have a slosh baffle in it. It's never been an issue. Is that typically a big deal?

* I bought a new needle and seat. The one I had in it is the check ball style, which I have head better luck with on other carbs like Zeniths. I drive my car, so reliability is a big deal to me. I'm thinking that I want to reuse that ball style valve. Will it flow enough fuel to feed my improved engine? (H/C head, big valves, IB-330 cam, B intake)?

That kit sure costs a pretty penny. $73.

Anything else I need to know?

Re: B Carb Questions
 

Gene F: to properly rebuild a "B" carb, you should remove all bass plugs and clean the passages. There are a few hidden passages that can't be cleaned without doing that. One is in the idle circuit and a second is the power jet orifice and the third area is under the GAV seat. The large bass insert GAV seat also needs to be removed to clean below the seat. There is a small washer and spring under the seat that tends to get really rusty. If the carburetor has been sitting unused for a long time, a thorough cleaning is needed.

Re: B Carb Questions
 

Gene , you have a good start on cleaning your carb using the Chem dip. I would remove it and clean the carb follow Beryman instruction, I would get some Evaporust or Rust 911 and with the Evoporust warmed to 80 degrees let do its job at removing the rust on the outside of your carb and the inside hidden passages. When the rust is removed wash the carb off with hot/warm water and then blow the passages out with compressed air followed by spray carb cleaner!
As for carb adjustments ...... Each and every engine/ car / carburetor needs different adjustments ..... Adjust to what your car/carb needs!

Re: B Carb Questions
 

Thanks. However, I'm still not getting the info I need from this board. I have read through a myriad of info I have found, but the things I asked I have not found in the info that I found. The "just tear it down and rebuild it, you will figure it out" isn't cutting it. It didn't come out of a parts bucket in a shed out back, it came off a running car. It's just not running quite up to snuff. I figured if any place I could get advice it would be here. I only want to do this once, so I want to do it right.

Sorry to be so grumpy guys, but I need help.

Re: B Carb Questions
 

Gene F: You said it came off a running car but it not quite running right. If you want to cut corners, follow "big hammers" advice. If you want a trouble free carburetor for years to come, rebuild it correctly and tear it down completely!!!!

Re: B Carb Questions
 

I have it torn down, and soaking. I'm asking questions about choices and settings putting it back together. For example...how high does the float get set.....stuff like that. There is no short cuts, I don't want keep taking it apart to change things. Plainly folks know what they are doing, I'm trying to learn how to do it too.

Re: B Carb Questions
 

Glenn F: to do it right, you need to remove all the brass passage plugs and the brass GAV fitting. It would be to your benefit to purchase the carburetor manual "Restoring The Model 'A' and 'B' Carburetors - The 'Rex' Reheis Way" by Gordon Biggar.

Re: B Carb Questions
 

Hope this helps!

https://clampdowncomp.com/tech/rebui...el-a-4-banger/

Re: B Carb Questions
 

Parallel w/the upper section is usually a good starting point.

Re: B Carb Questions
 

This is out of print and no longer available. To bad it was a great book.

Re: B Carb Questions
 

OK, one more question. I bought the spring for the float. Never had one before. I guess that was an improvement that was developed later. Perhaps it was an aftermarket thing. In any event, it hold the tension to close the valve, and steady the float right? How does that thing go on? Have yet to find a diagram, or any instructions on the spring. Everything is going along fine, but I looked over and the spring was sitting on the work bench. For what I paid for that little thing I might just as well use it.

Re: B Carb Questions
 

The spring is only used with a fuel pump. Gravity feed-no spring.
BTW you will love the B carb when it is right.

Re: B Carb Questions
 

I might have the float just a bit high, but we will see how it goes. Thanks for the info on the spring.

Re: B Carb Questions
 

Call Renner's corner in the link above. He helped me on Facebook. You need a fitting for the bottom of the fuel bowl and set the fuel level @ 5/8" below the mating line (where the gasket goes). Mine was way high and I needed to make a 2nd needle and seat gasket to get it lower. Made a world of difference is how it ran. I think I still have something blocking some of the passages behind the brass plugs but it's a start.

Re: B Carb Questions
 

So 5/8" is the FUEL level? I have one of those little fittings and tubes for my Zenith, will it fit my B Carb?

Re: B Carb Questions
 

Yes it will fit the B carb.

Re: B Carb Questions
 

Thanks. That means I'll be able to get the fuel level spot on

Re: B Carb Questions
 

Yeah, when I took mine apart I junked the extra gasket under the needle seat and it put the fuel level slightly above the parting line. Added it back in and it was just about right.

Re: B Carb Questions
 

I got the fuel level at 5/8". Started it up, and double checked it with it running. Then after warm-up I set the air fuel mixture screw. I set it with the GAV open 1/4 turn. Seems like that it where it is the best overall.

Maybe next week the weather will be better and I can take it for a little spin and see how I did.

Re: B Carb Questions
 

Please report for findings.