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-   -   How to spot an original brake light switch? (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111774)

Jim/GA 07-14-2013 02:07 PM

How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

I have tried to search for this on this forum and can not find anything on it if it is there.

What are the telltale signs of an original '29 brake light switch, compared to a reproduction?

What should one look for? I assume you have to open it up to see it.

Thanks!

Drive Shaft Dave 07-14-2013 08:37 PM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

Look for brass bushings in each end of the switch, where the rod goes through. I know the 30,31 are like that.

Special Coupe Frank 07-14-2013 10:04 PM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

I don't believe the '28-'29 switches have brass bushings.


I have not seen a repro '28-'29 switch, but I have an original Ford switch on my '28 coupe.

I don't think you'd need to open one up to tell a repro.

For one thing, a repro would not have the patina of an 80 year-old switch; even a NOS switch would have some dulling of the tin-plated case...

Based on my assay of the off-shore repro headlight sockets, I would bet that the repro stoplight switches are made from much lighter metal than the original switches.

If A & L makes a stoplight-switch for '28-'29, I would feel confident that it is equal to ( or exceeds ) the original Ford part.

Tom Wesenberg 07-14-2013 10:49 PM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

3 Attachment(s)
Here are 3 pictures showing my original 28-9 switch that I had to replace a broken spring on. I have seen some repro switches that had a thinner rod.

John Duden 07-14-2013 11:34 PM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg (Post 688543)
Here are 3 pictures showing my original 28-9 switch that I had to replace a broken spring on. I have seen some repro switches that had a thinner rod.

sometimes the rod is not long enough

700rpm 07-14-2013 11:41 PM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

Jim, one of the clues is the little indent at the top of the cover. (Note Tom's picture.) The reproductions I have seen don't have that. Repros also have larger insulating washers at the connecting bolts. The insides are different too, but you can't always check that.

Oh, one other thing: originals work, and the repros... well, not always.:rolleyes:

By the way, I never push the little tabs back flat; I just give them a slight twist. This will hold the cover on and you don't risk breaking the tabs off with repeated disassemblies.

Jim/GA 07-15-2013 12:15 AM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

This is all very helpful, guys, especially the pictures. Thanks. It looks like my switch is an original. I will clean it up and try to get it working again.

Fred 07-15-2013 08:39 AM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

Put a Re-pop next to an original & try pulling the plunger rod on each, you will know real quick which is which...

Gary Karr 07-15-2013 08:48 PM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

Ray is correct on the fiber washers. Repops are usually red. The small hex nuts on original studs are also single chamfered. Repops nuts are double-chamfered.

BRENT in 10-uh-C 07-15-2013 09:07 PM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim/TX (Post 688569)
This is all very helpful, guys, especially the pictures. Thanks. It looks like my switch is an original. I will clean it up and try to get it working again.


Jim. I thought we looked at yours and the insulators were not correct size? Is this the same one??

Jim/GA 07-15-2013 10:13 PM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

No, I picked up another one that appears to be real (finally).

It has the smaller fiber insulator washers that are tan color, not red, and the steel nuts are correct.

d.j. moordigian 07-16-2013 09:49 AM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

2 Attachment(s)
Morning....* btw..these insulators are Red*

[email protected] 07-16-2013 10:35 AM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

I just called A&L last week looking for a good 28-29 repop switch. They told me that they only make the 30-31 brake switches and they sell the Vintique 28-29 switches... I ordered one of them from A&L. Great quick friendly service...

My old repop 28-29 last switch failed because the red insulator seemed to be too small in diameter to work even after trying to tweak the brass contacts. I also had to use a small turnbuckle to make the correct distance link to the brake clevis pin. The new repop one is now installed and good for now but don't know how it will perform for the long haul.... Also the new link I got from A&L also fits perfectly so I was able to toss out the turnbuckle..... I also added the extra brake pedal return spring for good measure.... No more worries for now about a stop light being on all of the time..:)

BRENT in 10-uh-C 07-16-2013 01:17 PM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois (Post 689324)
I never seemed to have much trouble w/ the '30-'31 switches, even the reproductions. The '28-'29's were an entirely different story on our '29 Tudpr and '28 Roadster, fighting them all the time.

How about spotting an original '30-'31 switch? Same criteria?

Does A&L make a good reproduction '30-'31 switch? I need to call them and get a spare to have on hand.......

A&L does make a very nice reproduction. Thanks to Terry Lucas' pictures, I made a quick visual image to show the differences...

.

Tom Wesenberg 07-26-2013 07:13 PM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

1 Attachment(s)
Here's a cutaway view of a repro 30-1 brake light switch. Notice that it has combo screws rather than slotted screws, and it has no bushings for the shaft.

I took this picture at the new Model A museum in Hickory Corners, Michigan.

jrelliott 07-27-2013 02:40 PM

Re: How to spot an original brake light switch?
 

My repro 28-29 brake light switch failed from the end of the rod that does not attach to the linkage coming inside the switch body. Took some brass tubing and soldered it on the end of the switch body that the rod came in on. Switch works great now. Sometimes you have to make do with what you have.


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