engine removal
 

i am in the process of removing the engine from my 46 mercury with a 1CM engine.i have the front clip removed and would like to remove engine and trans at same time.my question is which head bolts to use to center the load.i'm sure someone has done it like this.just trying to save the guess work.all knowledge is welcome.

Re: engine removal
 

I have found it easier to do if you first remove the intake manifold with all the other stuff on the top of the engine that gets in the way. Then use the farthest back top head bolt on the Pass. side and the forward most top head bolt on the Driver side. BUY LONGER NEW 7/16-NC BOLTS from hardware store and use them with washers - not your OEM head bolts. Grade 5 bolts will not break so don't waste your money on grade 8. I have also used the intake manifold bolt holes, but not with transmission attached. To make the job a lot easier use a load leveler - even if you use it only twice it's well worth it. I used this one to remove a 354 hemi.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...ler-67441.html

Re: engine removal
 

I've used bolts at either end of the area where the intake manifold bolts on, not from the cylinder heads. They're smaller diameter, but will be plenty strong. I just try to make sure that the bolts are run down all the way. You could try two in front and two in the rear, with two chains somehow. Some folks make up a neat plate to replace the intake manifold, with two lifting lugs. I also use a leveler I bought at Harbor Freight. Think I paid maybe $30 for it.

Re: engine removal
 

sounds like a plan,what length 7/16 bolts do i need ? harbor freight here i come.

Re: engine removal
 

I'm with you. I always utilize the rearmost and foremost threaded holes on the engine deck. In fact, years ago, I made a pair of brackets that can be used "over" the valve chamber cover with longer than OEM bolts. Two bolts (L&R) secure the front and two the rear bracket(s). Then I attach an engine lift weight equalizer at the center of each and the task of removing and installing becomes so much easier...

Re: engine removal
 

Has anybody tried using a plate bolted to where the carb attaches to the intake with a ring welded on to it?

Re: engine removal
 

I made a plate that bolts on, similar to what is used with 5.0 engines if your familiar with what they look like.

Update: Sorry I was reading to fast! I was referring to a plate over the valve valley, not the carb mount on the intake manifold. :)

Re: engine removal
 

I have and if you have good threads in the carb mounting it good threads on the bolts it should work well.

Re: engine removal
 

Below is a simple and cheap lift method; just two 1 1/2" x 1/8" lengths of angle iron. Connected by chains (not shown) is an equalizer/leveler that allows easy and precise one man engine or engine/trans removal and installation.
The valley would be covered if this was a fresh rebuild, but sadly this one is garage art because of fist-sized holes between several cylinders! :)

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...latlift2EM.jpg

Re: engine removal
 

And then again, there's always "Plan B"! DD

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r...pstbeiommt.jpg

Re: engine removal
 

If I know the heads and manifold are going to be removed anyway, I like to remove them first before the entire engine comes out. It provides a great lifted weight reduction and then I use a chain and bolts to the intake bolt holes.

Re: engine removal
 

Just took my 59A/B flathead out of my '41 coupe and put it back in with the transmission attached. Hood was off and radiator out of course, but and the fenders and grill were still on. That takes take quite a bit of tilt adjustment to clear firewall and cross members as you progressively move the engine up and forward. I bought a Big Red leveler to go with the Big Red cherry picker. Best $30 I ever spent (Pep Boys). It has screw adjustable lift point between the two ends of the lift bar. There are two short chain on either end of the bar, with L shaped pieces to bolt to the engine. I used stock intake bolts on the two rearmost and two front most intake manifold mounting bolts; snugged down but not hard.

I have smallish tires on the front, which I had to pump up to 50 PSI to get enough ground clearance for the cherry picker to slip under the tie rod. Being able to roll the car instead of rolling the cherry picker for fore and aft movement is an advantage.

I wanted to leave the headers hooked up to the exhaust pipes in the car, so I had to remove the steady rods from the engine to clear the header flanges. They are easy to unbolt from the front cross member and bell housing, but I had to raise the engine about and inch and a half to slip them out of the bell housing.

I managed to get it back in with the starter and heads attached as well. Took quite a bit of adjustment and wiggling things around, but I successfully avoided that unpleasant task of installing a starter that wants to come apart while laying on the floor. The steady rod and starter business may not apply if you are pulling the engine with stock exhaust manifolds attached.