"Doodlebug"
 

What have I gotten myself into....:)

I volunteer for a local agricultural museum and ended up with a doodlebug tractor...apparently half a model A with 2 transmissions (are those from an A also?) and an international truck transaxle which I have to bring back from the dead. So ugly it makes me smile.

Since I'm new the model A thing I was hoping someone could direct me to a good book on the subject that is more about engines and transmissions than making the body pretty and new. Most is obvious but not all...

Also would help if you folks can eyeball the photos and let me know if you see anything worth commenting on. Engine is not stuck--and was running "before it was parked". Wiring is shot and will need to be redone. Because it's a tractor not a car (now), it's designed to use the steering wheel throttle and skip the foot. Suggestions on what to replace on a tight budget? What's worth repairing instead of replacing? Since I'm just getting started, any sage advise helps.

Goal is the ugliest vehicle we can put in the small town's parade...and reliable enough to not be a battle. We already do a string of museum tractors and want to add this to the nice ones.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

That is a model A 4 speed on the engine, and a Ford V8 4 speed behind that. With both in first gear, you could walk faster than the machine will go. I have had several of them, and they are fun.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

Before running.
Exhaust header looks like it has gotten very hot, looks like the spark advance lever/rods are missing. If the distributor upper plate is set for retarded that could be the cause. Might be best to add back a spark advance control. If it is set advanced that can be hard on the motor bottom end as there is a tendency it will attempt back kicking during starting. This is also very dangerous if starting using the hand crank. Maybe rig up a push/pull cable if the lever/linkage in the steering column is missing?

Am not familiar with the trans items, other will have to comment on lubrication for those.

Also get rid of the rubber gas hose from the firewall to the filter and carb. Dangerous if it leaks with exhaust header so close.

Toss the 4 blade fan, they are well known to stress crack and throw blades. Damage to the radiator, water pump, hood is likely. Could hurt or kill someone. Not good especially with plans to run in parades. Replace with a 2 blade aluminum fan, would look out of place but you could treat it for false aging. This is a #1 safety issue.

Drop the oil pan and clean out sludge if present. With the pan dropped clean the oil pump and oil pump screen. Take the valve cover off and clean out the oil galley, and clean out the 3 oil passages in the bottom of the galley that feed the Babbitt bearings.
Change the motor oil. Keep an eye on oil condition, once turns blackish and change again, it may get dirty 1st time quickly if there was sludge during teh above clean out.

If gas is old drain clean out tank, fuel lines, and carb bowl before turning the motor over.

When rewiring - add a fuse. A very common basic fuse kit is supplied can be purchased from Model A vendors, and the kit mounts to the starter.

Oil the distributor and generator. Additionally lube the distributor cam.

Once running

Drain and change all fluids, grease all grease zerks, special care to only give a partial pump of grease to the zerk closest to the block on the water pump.

Back flush, then flush the cooling system, 1st time add water/detergent (such as Dawn) and run the motor for awhile, them back flush/flush out oil/grease, then additionally with just water. Then drain and use distilled water/rust inhibitor. Additional treatments more aggressive may be required if it overheats.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

Forgot - Welcome to the Ford Barn. Looks to be an interesting project:-)

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

Also re-torque the head to 55 lbs using the correct torque sequence.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

Thanks for the advice. I appreciate all suggestions and recommendations. I'm the kind of guy who does a lot of research before turning a screw so I have at least a bit of a game plan -- everything mentioned is on the list now.

The spark advance handle is there and working smoothly--just the tie rod was missing. I had intended to put it back but it's nice to get confirmation of the importance.

I'm a bit confused on something regarding fuel lines. There is hard line with a glass float bowl from the fire wall to the intake manifold. There is a second from the petcock under the dash to the carb. On engine photos on the web, I see engines with only (apparently) the line to the carb and not to the manifold AND photos with both lines. Why the extra line? Important or a kludge that is not really needed? Or...am I misinterpreting?

Thanks

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

I have no idea what that is. From factory the shutoff valve feeds the sediment bowl on the firewall, and then onto the carb.


How is gas getting to the sediment bowl?


The line from the shutoff to the intake manifold pretty much bypasses the carb, kinda like spraying gas or quick-start into the carb air intake.


Maybe it was hard starting in the winter, so they added an additional line into the intake manifold to prime the intake manifold? Dunno. While starting or running pouring raw gas into the intake manifold does not seem to be a good idea.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

Thanks for the feedback. The current fuel line is set up basically bypassing the sediment bowl as far as I can see. I had originally assumed the "farmer" just did something weird but in looking at a few photos online such as the one below, about 1 in 20 seem to have that extra line heading into the intake header. Other intake headers have a plug in that hole.

Being an ignorant cuss, I may just be misinterpreting things based on what a farmer with about 9 beers in him decided was "right" at the time.

Found that I did have a photo of the firewall on mine here at the office. The "revised" fuel line is through a hole in the firewall.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

That is for vacuum wipers.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

The line in the intake manifold is for the vacuum windshield wipers, don't have a clue
what yours goes to.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

Thanks to you all. I was about to guess vacuum (my M715 military truck still uses vacuum wipers)...but as the photo shows, it goes to the sediment bowl now. So I guess my 9 beers theory is probably correct.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

Is there anything on the sediment bowl fitting on the inside cabin side of the firewall?



The lines still look like rubber, and the additional picture above shows one going through the firewall, if rubber possible ear point on rubber.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

W do you get when you put them both in reverse?

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

Looks like may be a delco remy generator and regulator on the firewall. Very similar to what was on many tractors so if it works leave it. People with old tractors will be familiar with it, more so than a model A set up. Other option would be to go to 12 volt.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

first thing I would suggest is to replace the radiator hoses, drop the pan and clean the sludge out, flush the gas tank, and get the fuel line figured out.
The silver can fuel filter may be clogged and is not needed if your tank is clean.
You may not need a windshield at the speeds you will be travelling...tractors don't have windshields.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

The original float bowl is not connected on the other side of the fire wall--just plugged. I assume the builder was a bit confused when that vacuum line was run to the bowl--it's not like a proper header plug would be hard to get.

Even though we are a tiny town in the middle of nowhere, we did have a large race track at one point in time. In fact, the Ag museum where this will end up sits on that race track--some of the banks still exist. There are hints that the Model a (or AA) body had a racing number at one point so it may have been used there. Because of that possible historical tie, I'll keep the windshield. I do have to check with the family of the original maker to see if I can glean more history though.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

Double reverse, make a mark on the ground too see when it moves! :rolleyes:

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

Both in reverse will go forward slowly.

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

Then when both in first it goes backward?

Re: "Doodlebug"
 

The engine turns the first transmission input shaft clockwise. Put the first transmission in reverse and the output shaft turns counter clockwise, turning input for second transmission counter clockwise instead of clockwise. Second transmission in reverse changes output shaft to clockwise rotation same as the engine. Really simple. If you want to back up, just put one transmission in reverse. Either one.



Both transmissions in first, everything turns clockwise.