Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

Hello, this is my first post on the "New Ford Barn", looks like a nice upgrade from the original that I did read from time to time. What is the proper way to install the replacement D shaped captive nuts? I'm starting with the ones in the rear subrail crossmember. Is there a special tool I need to swedge the flange or some special tricks from past restorers? Thanks in advance! Bob:)

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

I'm sure out there somewhere there is a tool but I think most weld them in.

You can also peen the edge over with a small ball peen hammer and a heavy weight to keep the sheet metal from deforming.

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

Part of the problem with welding them in, is some that are being sold today by the Model A vendors are actually made of brass, --which won't "weld" very well. The way we install them is to use a 2X rivet gun with a flush rivet set. Very clean and quick.

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

Brent, Welcome good to see your post!!!

One more thig, there is a person that has gas tank problems and a couple of the guys mentioned you had the pics of the tank open here is the link or look for "it must me the rust"

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=598

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

Thanks, I can picture that on a firewall or another area were a bucking bar will fit, but ther back rail is a boxed section. Bob:)

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

Its been awhile but I remember fishing a wire threw the channel and pulling the D-nut into place and welding

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

That looks like the only way to do it. Make a metal bridge to hold the nut in place with a screw and MIG weld it in a few spots. :)

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

The way I did it was to put a peice of wire through the d-nut bend it(I made a little ball of wire) so it will hold the d-nut in place after you get it through the hole. It will take some manuvering to get the d-nut through the hole I had to tap with small hammer. After that I just pulled up tight in place and sodier it in place being careful not to get sodier in the threads. Cilp the wire and that is all you will have inside the channel.

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

Thank you Richard, I may have been overthinking this deal. I'd drilled a brass 10-32 screw for a wire that I planned to run the D nut with then tighten it down on a bridge washer I'd narrowed for MIG wire clearance. Your knot of wire will work better, and allow more welding room.

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

FINISHED! Wire and a MIG welder worked just fine. I'm not a MIG welding fan, but have to admit in this case it was the right tool for the job. Now if someone could post an inside photo of a 30-31 Ford Coupe/Roadster trunk I can move onto the next problem, the inside rear tin.

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

morning
sparklecityspeedshop here. what part of the d nut are you bucking/riveting?
thanks
like your idea. sort of way suppose to be in.

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

This is a pretty old thread so some guys may not respond.

The part the goes through the hole has to be expanded to stay in the hole just like a rivet only not so much pounding is needed as a rivet normally takes.

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

Here's a dumb one:
Would JBWeld work long (well) enough to secure the cage until the bolt draws the nut up snug against the firewall... I'm wondering if one of the primary purposes of the cages is to hold the nut in place just long enough to get the bolt started, so as the bolt draws the nut up against the sheet metal marginally less force comes to be placed against the cage?
(Guess I'm basically asking how much shear strength a JBWeld joint would actually provide? Got to be easy enough to find out -- I could just try and see if it fails -- but what's the consensus, would it?)
Thanks,
JB
(No relation to "The Weld" lol)

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

I use JB Weld for a lot of less than high strength stuff. It and many other light duty epoxy adhesives sort of have a life limit before weather and temperature changes sort of break the stuff down. If any corrosion gets started between the parts then that will break the bond. There are some high strength structural adhesives that will last a way lot longer but they are also more expensive and a little dangerous to use.

I used some Hysol high strength stuff one time that got so hot I had to dunk the semkit in a bucket of water only 8 minutes after I mixed it up. It actually started melting the semkit container and was starting to smoke. I had to use two kits to get the job done and they were around $100 a kit.

Re: Installing Model A Ford == D == Shaped Nuts
 

Check out the following replacement for D-nuts that do not require welding and are similar to rivets but use bolts to cinch tight.


https://www.amazon.com/VIGRUE-Rivnut.../dp/B07MY1WLM9